TUTORIAL VIDEO:
1. WHICH LEATHER TO CHOOSE TO MAKE A BELT?
We advise you to select vegetable-tanned leather (i.e. leather without heavy metals: use of vegetable tannins) at least 3 mm thick. The ideal way to make a belt is to choose bovine leather. The parts of the leather to favor are the rump : it is the noblest part of the leather (and therefore the most expensive) or the collar which remains a very resistant part of the leather.
You can directly choose a leather strap (already cut) or take a whole skin and cut your own strips using a strap cutter.
ADVICE :
Depending on where the straps are stored but also the season (high heat for example), the leather can become very dry and therefore difficult to work with. We recommend feeding the crust side and the slices with neatsfoot oil before any work (to prevent the flower from cracking). Do not feed pull-up, oily or already nourished leather.
2. WHICH BELT BUCKLE TO CHOOSE?
The choice of buckle is individual: everything will depend on the desired aesthetic. Most often belts are made with a pin buckle or a prong buckle.
But many variations exist: double buckle, double pin buckle, western buckle, belt buckle...
HOW WIDTH IS MY BELT?
The width of your belt will depend on the width of the buckle selected (or vice versa). The average width of a belt is 35 mm (standard).
3. HOW TO CHOOSE THE LENGTH OF YOUR BELT?
SIZE GUIDE
In general, the commercial size of the belt is the distance from the buckle to the 3rd hole. Please note that you must be able to tighten your belt at the third hole without leaving tightening marks on the leather: this is the ideal size.
If you want to make your own belt: take one of your belts and measure the length from the end of the leather at the buckle to the hole you usually use OR measure your waist measurement directly. To this measurement add 15 cm for the end of the belt and approximately 10-12 cm for the chainstay. You now know the length of strap needed!
The table below is given for information purposes only (it is by no means an absolute truth) .
To know the total length of strap necessary we took 5 cm off the commercial size (average length of a belt buckle) and we added 26 cm to our measurement: 15 cm for the last 2 holes/end of the belt and approximately 11 cm for the chainstay.
| Trouser size EUR |
Trouser size US |
“Commercial” size of the belt (in cm) |
Lanyard total length (in cm) |
| 34 | 24 | 80 | 101 |
| 36 | 26 | 82 | 103 |
| 38 | 28 | 85 | 106 |
| 40 | 30 | 90 | 111 |
| 42 | 32 | 95 | 116 |
| 44 | 34 | 100 | 121 |
| 46 | 36 | 105 | 126 |
| 48 | 38 | 107 | 128 |
| 50 | 40 | 110 | 131 |
| 52 | 42 | 115 | 136 |
| 54 | 44 | 120 | 140 |
| www.decocuir.com |
For this tutorial, we made two size 40 belts for a total length of 111 cm. The black belt is 30mm wide and the London tan belt is 34mm wide.
Tip (if you have to create many belts): create belt length markers on your workshop to save time and precision.
4. HOW TO WORK THE END OF THE BELT?
After having defined the length of the strap, you must cut it and at the same time work the end of the belt using:
- a belt end cookie cutter
- a Plexiglas template and a cutting tool (be careful not to cut all at once but in quarters or you risk not having a nice cut - see video).
Several shapes are possible: round, pointed, saddle, trapezoid...
Here is a video on the so-called “quartering” cutting technique to cut a rounded edge cleanly. Here we use a straight paring knife.
5. HOW TO MAKE HOLES IN A LEATHER BELT?
A leather belt usually has 5 holes with an average spacing of 2.5 cm (center to center). The choice of hole diameter is made according to the width of the buckle barb (on average: 3.5/4 mm in diameter). The first hole is 10 cm from the edge.
You can use the Deco Cuir self-centering template to make your holes more quickly and precisely.
THE 5 BELT HOLES
6. WHAT SIZE ENCHAPURE FOR MY BELT BUCKLE?
The chapure is the oblong hole which allows the pin of the buckle to pass through.
Set the cutting width based on the size of the barb and the length based on the thickness of the leather (standard length: 25 mm).
The chapure is generally located about 8-10 cm from the edge . Please note if you have chosen a claw buckle, skip this step there is no need to make a chainring.
Tip: you can moisten the strap (crust side) at the folding area to prevent the leather from being damaged and also to flex the leather more easily.
BELT WITH SEAM:
Make the chapure directly on the leather strap.
BELT WITH CHICAGO SCREWS OR RIVETS (SEAMLESS):
From the leather strap: cut a strip of 12-13 cm and make the chapure. This piece of at least 10 cm will allow you to attach the belt buckle to your leather strap using Chicago screws or rivets. Its main advantage: it can be repositioned as desired if you wish to shorten the leather strap.
This part can be completely split/thickened to avoid significant excess thickness.
2 SOLUTIONS TO MAKE AN ENCHAPURE
1- Using a chain cookie cutter.
2- Make 2 holes using a round cookie cutter then join them with a cutter and a ruler.
7. LEATHER LAMP
Using a size 2 blank: chamfer the leather on the grain side and the crust side (on both sides of the leather). The edge shade makes the edges more rounded to reduce friction (comfort and aesthetics).
If you are a beginner or if your leather is thin, we advise you to make the decorative fillet (see step 9) before chamfering the leather: to be sure to have a straight fillet.
8. HOW TO MAKE A BELT LOOP?
The loop helps hold the end of the buckle once attached: it must perfectly fit the width of your belt.
To determine its length, add the dimensions of 2x belt width and 4x belt thickness.
For example, for a strap 35 mm wide and 3 mm thick, the loop will have a length of: 82 mm (35x2) + (3x4).
The loop is generally made of less thick leather (split leather) than that of the belt.
Standard dimensions:
- Loop width: 13 mm
- Leather thickness: 2 mm
In addition, the standard indicates that the loop must be located 3 sewing points from the buckle. This must of course be adjusted depending on the choice of buckle (e.g. for a double buckle, the loop cannot be 3 points).
As for assembling the loop, several possibilities are available to you. We invite you to watch our video (at the beginning of this tutorial) or refer to step 11 to find out more. The different possibilities are:
1- Assembling the loop with a clip.
2- Split the ends of the loop and integrate it into the seam of the strap.
3- Sewing the ends of the loop.
Possibility of using a loop pliers or mandrel: the loop pliers attach to the saddle maker pliers (reducer) and allow you to hold the leather belt loop when sewing by hand (saddle stitch). The mandrel will allow you to make and shape (to the right size) your belt loops.
4- Choose a metal loop.
9. DECORATIVE NET AND SLICE WORK
To obtain beautiful finishes, there are several ways to work vegetable tanned leather:
- Working the slices with a slice finish or a finishing gum (tokonole, gum arabic, tragacanth gum).
- Sand the slices with a fine abrasive sponge.
- Apply a first coat of stain (light coat) with the tool of your choice (awl, brush, roller pen, etc.).
- Sand the edges again.
- Apply a second coat of stain.
- Optional: wax the slices with beeswax.
- Decorative net 2 mm from the edge: hot (threading iron) or cold (former, leatherworker's net iron) marking of the leather.
To go even further in detail, you can also make a decorative net on the crust side.
Little tips to make your belt even more unique: work the edges with a changing color, mark your belt with stamps (for example alphabets), emboss the leather (embossing wheel)...
HOW TO WORK THE CRUST SIDE OF THE BELT?
You can work the crust side of the belt with a finishing eraser (if very fluffy leather): the eraser helps bond the leather fibers. You can also let the leather patina over time.
DEEPEN YOUR KNOWLEDGE WITH ONE OF OUR GUIDES:
10. HOW TO ATTACH THE BUCKLE TO THE BELT? WITH OR WITHOUT SEAM.
1- ATTACH THE BUCKLE WITH CHICAGO SCREWS OR RIVETS
FAVORITE METHOD
Discover our 2 complete kits to get started in making leather belts (kits with or without tools):
If you choose the chicago screw version you can adjust the length of the belt (shorten it) as you wish (useful if you do not know the person's height). In addition, you can change your belt buckle if it no longer suits your taste.
Note: we advise you to choose screws with a diameter of 10 mm and a center distance of 8 mm.
See step 6 for the small 12-13 cm strip with the chainstay.
Make 2 holes 1.5 and 4 cm from each end of the 12-13 cm strip. Pass the pin of the belt buckle through the chain. Then pass the belt loop. Position the 12-13 cm strip on the leather strap and mark the position of the holes then drill. Tighten the chicago screws while securing the belt loop.
2- CHOOSE A PRONG BUCKLE
A belt buckle with claws is very simple to install: simply clip it/fold the claws onto the end of the leather strap. There is no need to make an enchapure to install a claw buckle.
3- ATTACH THE BUCKLE WITH A HORIZONTAL STITCH
For any belt (with sewing) it is advisable to favor hand sewing and more precisely saddle stitch sewing. You will be sure to have a strong seam.
GUIDE - SEWING POINT SELLIER >
Method no. 3: make an 8 cm seam on the 2 lengths (parallel to the edge). This requires a bit of technique because you have to insert the loop between the 2 layers of leather and integrate it into the seam.
This is the technique most appreciated by craftsmen because there is little friction on the wire and therefore more resistance.
4- ATTACH THE BUCKLE WITH A HORIZONTAL HOLED STITCH
This method is generally chosen for beginners who do not have the tools or technique to do a saddle stitch seam.
Tips:
- Read our guide on simplified sewing (with holes in leather).
- Download the paper template to drill your strap.
- The steps are almost similar to method 3. We recommend trimming the end of your strap to avoid creating excess thickness. The diameter of the holes is 1.5 mm.
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5- ATTACH THE BUCKLE WITH A VERTICAL SEAM
This method is generally chosen for machine sewing. It allows you to have a mobile loop and requires a little less technique than the previous method. The seam will be more prone to chafing.
Tips:
- To have a nice point on the sides: do not scratch them but only work them with the round awl.
- Grate the crust side of the leather before gluing and sewing in order to strengthen the adhesion of the glue (use a leather rasp) .
- Start and finish the seam with a saddle stitch.
- To avoid weakening the leather: do not scratch too close to the chapure (at least 0.5 cm).
11. HOW TO PROTECT AND NOURISH MY LEATHER BELT?
Before enjoying your belt, don't forget to wax or grease it (except nourished leather). You can then maintain your leather with a nourishing cream and shoe polish. We recommend the blonde panda grease.
IT'S OVER ! WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE VERSION?
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WHERE CAN I TAKE A WORKSHOP TO MAKE MY LEATHER BELT?
For an afternoon, come and make your own leather belt in our workshop located in Campbon between Nantes and Saint-Nazaire (44 - Loire Atlantique).
4 comments
Anonymous
Bonjour Nathalie,
Nous n’avons pas prévu, pour le moment, de faire un tutoriel pour apprendre à faire des ceintures bombées mais c’est une très bonne idée. En revanche nous venons de rentrer en stock de la sugherite pour permettre de renforcer et donner un côté bombé à vos lanières https://www.decocuir.com/products/renfort-interieure-sugherite-ceinture-poignee-anse-sac-longueur-1m
Bonne journée 😊
L’équipe Deco Cuir
Saillant
Bonjour,
Pouvez-vous prévoir un tutoriel pour fabriquer une ceinture bombée ?
Cordialement.
Anonymous
J’adore vos tutoriels car il sont simples et faciles à réaliser.
Anonymous
Merci pour ce tutoriel hyper intéressant pour des ceintures en cuir de grande qualité. J’achète régulièrement chez vous et je ne suis jamais déçu.