TUTORIAL VIDEO:
1. WHICH LEATHER TO CHOOSE TO MAKE A BELT?
We advise you to select vegetable tanned leather (i.e. leather without heavy metals: use of vegetable tannins) at least 3 mm thick. The ideal for making a belt is to choose bovine leather. The parts of the leather to favor are the butt : it is the most noble part of the leather (and therefore the most expensive) or the collar which remains a very resistant part of the leather.
You can choose a leather strap directly (already cut) or take a whole skin and cut your own strips using a strap cutter / strap cutter.
ADVICE :
Depending on where the straps are stored but also on the season (high temperatures for example), the leather can become very dry and therefore difficult to work with. We recommend feeding the crust side and the slices with neatsfoot oil before any work (to prevent the flower from cracking). Do not feed pull-up, oily or already fed leather.
2. WHICH BELT BUCKLE TO CHOOSE?
The choice of the loop is specific to each: everything will depend on the desired aesthetics. Most often belts are made with a pin buckle or a claw buckle.
But many variations exist: double buckle, double pin buckle, western buckle, belt buckle...
WHAT WIDTH FOR MY BELT?
The width of your belt will depend on the width of the buckle selected (or vice versa). The average width of a belt is 35mm (standard).
3. HOW TO CHOOSE THE LENGTH OF YOUR BELT?
SIZE GUIDE
In general, the commercial size of the belt corresponds to the distance between the buckle and the 3rd hole. Note that you must be able to tighten your belt at the third hole without leaving marks on the leather: this is the ideal size.
If you want to make your own belt: take one of your belts and measure the length between the end of the leather at the buckle and the hole you usually use OR measure your waist directly. To this measurement add 15 cm for the end of the belt and about 10-12 cm for the eyelet. You now know the length of strap needed!
The table below is given as an indication (it is by no means an absolute truth) .
To know the total length of the strap needed, we have taken 5 cm off the commercial size (average length of a belt buckle) and we have added 26 cm to our measurement: 15 cm for the last 2 holes/end of the belt and approximately 11 cm for the chapure.
| pants size USD |
pants size US |
"Commercial" size of the belt (in cm) |
Total length strap (in cm) |
| 34 | 24 | 80 | 101 |
| 36 | 26 | 82 | 103 |
| 38 | 28 | 85 | 106 |
| 40 | 30 | 90 | 111 |
| 42 | 32 | 95 | 116 |
| 44 | 34 | 100 | 121 |
| 46 | 36 | 105 | 126 |
| 48 | 38 | 107 | 128 |
| 50 | 40 | 110 | 131 |
| 52 | 42 | 115 | 136 |
| 54 | 44 | 120 | 140 |
| www.decocuir.com |
For this tutorial, we made two size 40 belts for a total length of 111 cm. The black belt is 30mm wide and the London tan belt is 34mm wide.
Tip (if you have to create many belts): create belt length markers on your workshop to save time and be more precise.
4. HOW TO WORK THE END OF BELT?
After defining the length of the strap, you must cut it and work the end of the belt at the same time using:
- a punch for the end of a belt
- a Plexiglas template and a cutting tool (be careful not to cut all at once but in quarters at the risk of not having a good cut - see video).
Several shapes are possible: round, ogive, saddler, trapezium...
Here is a video on the so-called "quarter" cutting technique to cut a curve cleanly. Here we are using a straight paring knife.
5. HOW TO DRILL / MAKE HOLES IN A LEATHER BELT?
A leather belt usually has 5 holes with a spacing, on average, of 2.5 cm (center to center). The choice of the diameter of the hole is made according to the width of the barb of the buckle (on average: 3.5 / 4 mm in diameter). The first hole is 10 cm from the edge.
You can use the Deco Leather self-centering jig to make your holes more quickly and precisely.
THE 5 BELT HOLES
6. WHICH ENCHAPURE SIZE FOR MY BELT BUCKLE?
The enchapure is the oblong hole that allows the buckle's barb to pass through.
Define the width of cut according to the size of the barb and the length according to the thickness of the leather (standard length: 25 mm).
The chapure is usually about 8-10 cm from the edge . Be careful if you have chosen a claw buckle, skip this step, there is no need to make an enchapure.
Tip: you can moisten the strap (skin side) in the fold area to prevent the leather from being damaged and also to bend the leather more easily.
BELT WITH STITCHING:
Make the chapure directly on the leather strap.
BELT WITH CHICAGO SCREWS OR RIVETS (SEAMLESS):
In the leather strap: cut a strip of 12-13 cm and make the enchapure. This piece of 10 cm minimum will allow you to attach the belt buckle to your leather strap using Chicago screws or rivets. Its main advantage: it can be repositioned at will if you wish to shorten the leather strap.
This part can be completely split/thickened to avoid significant overthickness.
2 SOLUTIONS FOR MAKING AN ENCHAPURE
1- Using a chapure cookie cutter.
2- Make 2 holes using a round punch then join them with a cutter and a ruler.
7. SQUARE THE LEATHER
Using a size 2 edge trimmer: bevel the leather on the grain side and on the split side (on both sides of the leather). The edge cushion makes the edges more rounded to reduce friction (comfort and aesthetics).
If you are a beginner or if your leather is thin, we advise you to make the decorative fillet (see step 9) before chamfering the leather: to be sure to have a straight fillet.
8. HOW TO MAKE A BELT LOOP?
The loop allows you to hold the end of the buckle once attached: it must perfectly fit the width of your belt.
To determine its length, add the dimensions of 2x belt width and 4x belt thickness.
For example, for a strap 35 mm wide and 3 mm thick, the loop will have a length of: 82 mm (35x2) + (3x4).
The loop is generally made of less thick leather (split leather) than that of the belt.
Standard sizes:
- Loop width: 13 mm
- Leather thickness: 2 mm
In addition, the standard indicates that the loop must be 3 stitches from the loop. This must of course be adjusted according to the choice of the loop (eg for a double loop, the loop cannot be at 3 points).
As for the assembly of the loop, several possibilities are available to you. We invite you to watch our video (at the beginning of this tutorial) or refer to step 11 to learn more. The different possibilities are:
1- Assembly of the loop with a clip.
2- Split the ends of the loop and integrate it into the seam of the strap.
3- Sewing the ends of the loop.
Possibility of using a loop clamp or mandrel: the loop clamp attaches to the saddler clamp (reducer) and allows the leather belt loop to be held in place when sewing by hand (saddle stitch). The chuck will allow you to make and shape (to the right size) your belt loops.
4- Choose a metal loop.
9. DECORATIVE NETTING AND SLICE WORK
To obtain beautiful finishes, there are several ways to work vegetable tanned leather:
- Work on the edges with an edge finish or a finishing gum (tokonole, gum arabic, gum tragacanth).
- Sand the edges with a fine abrasive sponge.
- Put a first coat of dye (light coat) with the tool of your choice (alene, brush, roller pen...).
- Sand the edges again.
- Apply a second coat of stain.
- Optional: wax the slices with beeswax.
- Decorative net 2 mm from the edge: hot stamping (threading iron) or cold stamping (former, leather goods net iron) of the leather.
To go even further in the details, you can also make a decorative fillet on the crust side.
Little tricks to make your belt even more unique: work the edges with a color that changes, mark your belt with stamps (for example alphabets), emboss the leather (embossing roller)...
HOW TO WORK THE SPLIT SIDE OF THE BELT?
You can work on the split side of the belt with a finishing rubber (if the leather is very fluffy): the rubber allows the fibers of the leather to stick together. You can also let the leather acquire a patina over time.
DEEPEN YOUR KNOWLEDGE WITH ONE OF OUR GUIDES:
10. HOW TO ATTACH THE BUCKLE TO THE BELT? WITH OR WITHOUT SEWING.
1- ATTACH THE BUCKLE WITH CHICAGO SCREWS OR RIVETS
FAVORITE METHOD
Discover our 2 complete kits to start making leather belts (kits with or without tools):
If you choose the chicago vis version you can adjust the length of the belt (shorten it) as you see fit (useful if you don't know the size of the person). In addition, you can change the belt buckle if it is no longer to your liking.
Note: we advise you to choose screws with a diameter of 10 mm and a center distance of 8 mm.
See step 6 for the small 12-13 cm strip with the eyelet.
Make 2 holes 1.5 and 4 cm from each end of the 12-13 cm strip. Pass the tongue of the belt buckle through the eyelet. Then pass the belt loop. Position the 12-13 cm strip on the leather strap and mark the position of the holes then drill. Screw the chicago screws while wedging the belt loop.
2- CHOOSE A CLAW BUCKLE
A belt buckle with claws is very simple to put on: just clip it / fold the claws on the end of the leather strap. There is no need to make an chapure to put on a claw buckle.
3- ATTACH THE LOOP WITH A HORIZONTAL STITCH
For any belt (with seam) it is advisable to favor a hand seam and more precisely a saddle stitch seam. You will be sure to have a solid seam.
GUIDE - SADDLE STITCH SEWING >
Method n°3: sew an 8 cm seam on the 2 lengths (parallel to the edge). This requires a bit of technique because you have to insert the loop between the 2 layers of leather and integrate it into the seam.
This is the technique most appreciated by craftsmen because there is little friction on the wire and therefore more resistance.
4- ATTACH THE LOOP WITH A HORIZONTAL HOLE STITCH
This method is usually chosen for beginners who do not have the tools or technique to make a saddle stitch seam.
Tips:
- Read our guide on simplified sewing (with holes in leather).
- Download the paper template to drill your lanyard.
- The steps are almost similar to method 3. We recommend trimming the end of your strap to avoid creating excess thickness. The diameter of the holes is 1.5 mm.
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5- ATTACH THE LOOP WITH A VERTICAL STITCH
This method is generally chosen for a machine seam. It allows you to have a mobile loop and requires a little less technique than the previous method. The seam will be more prone to chafing.
Tips:
- To have a nice point on the sides: do not scratch them but only work them with the round awl.
- Grate the split side of the leather before gluing and sewing in order to strengthen the adhesion of the glue (use a grater for leather) .
- Begin and end the seam with a saddle stitch.
- In order not to weaken the leather: do not scratch too close to the notch (at least 0.5 cm).
11. HOW DO I PROTECT AND NOURISH MY LEATHER BELT?
Before enjoying your belt, do not forget to wax or grease it (except fed leather). You can then maintain your leather with a nourishing cream and shoe polish. We recommend the blond panda fat.
IT'S OVER ! WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE VERSION?
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WHERE CAN I FOLLOW A WORKSHOP TO MAKE MY LEATHER BELT?
For an afternoon, come and make your own leather belt in our workshop located in Campbon between Nantes and Saint-Nazaire (44 - Loire Atlantique).
4 comments
DECO CUIR
Bonjour Nathalie,
Nous n’avons pas prévu, pour le moment, de faire un tutoriel pour apprendre à faire des ceintures bombées mais c’est une très bonne idée. En revanche nous venons de rentrer en stock de la sugherite pour permettre de renforcer et donner un côté bombé à vos lanières https://www.decocuir.com/products/renfort-interieure-sugherite-ceinture-poignee-anse-sac-longueur-1m
Bonne journée 😊
L’équipe Deco Cuir
Saillant
Bonjour,
Pouvez-vous prévoir un tutoriel pour fabriquer une ceinture bombée ?
Cordialement.
Jean-Luc Garin
J’adore vos tutoriels car il sont simples et faciles à réaliser.
Thomas
Merci pour ce tutoriel hyper intéressant pour des ceintures en cuir de grande qualité. J’achète régulièrement chez vous et je ne suis jamais déçu.