guide faire une anse de sac en cuir

In this illustrated guide with several videos made with a leather craftsman (Nocam Cuir), we teach you how to make a handbag handle in mineral tanned or vegetable tanned leather. We will see 3 assembly methods: saddle stitch sewing, simplified sewing (with holes) and machine sewing.

Find the ideal attachment for your bag sewing projects: bag handle or shoulder strap/bag strap. We guide you on the choice to make to carry your bag in the best way.

How long is a leather bag handle generally?

Each bag handle is usually between 60 and 80 cm. They are perfect for carrying your bag by hand (60 cm) or on the shoulder (70 to 80 cm) .

What is the difference between a bag handle and a bag strap?

Unlike a pair of handles, a strap allows you to carry your bag over your shoulder. It has a length of between 100 and 120 cm.

In addition, the handles are sewn on the front and back of the bag, while the shoulder strap/strap is sewn on the sides.

What is the average distance between 2 bag handles?

The distance is approximately 20 to 25 cm (outside to outside of the handles - see diagram).

guide leather bag handle

We begin this guide by explaining to you how to sew and reinforce a leather bag handle in order to give it a nice sheathed appearance and therefore have a better grip on your bag.
The advantage of this technique is that you can have handles in the same leather as your leather goods creation!

How to strengthen a leather bag handle?

It is possible to reinforce/sheathe a leather bag handle with strand.

A strand, also called a bead or rod, is a set of threads twisted to form a rope/cord. It provides strength and rigidity to round handles and handles. All our bag handle strands are 100% cotton. We recommend a 6 mm diameter strand for small leather goods (e.g. small bag) , the 7 mm diameter strand for leather goods (e.g. shopping bag) and the 8 mm diameter strand (and more) for larger ones. creations (e.g. travel bag) .

strand for leather handle

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Which leather to choose to make a handle?

We recommend fairly supple leather, 1.2 to 1.8 mm thick. You can absolutely make handles in vegetable tanned or mineral tanned leather. The main difference will be the resistance. If you choose vegetable tanned leather it will be firmer and more resistant. This leather can also be cut with a strap cutter. If the leather is very soft, you will need to consider reinforcing it with tear-resistant tape and it will not be possible to cut it with a strap cutter (the rule + cutter method will remain 😊 ) .

Finally, you can also opt for our flexible straps (ex GROGRAIN) sold in several lengths and widths. Generally their thickness is around 2.5 mm. They are perfect for making pretty handles.


grograin leather strap

ROUND LEATHER HANDLE TUTORIAL

Here we go, we will explain to you how to sew and attach a leather bag handle: saddle stitch sewing, simplified sewing (with holes) and machine sewing.

As a reminder: the handles are always mounted on the body of the bag before sewing the lining.


  • SEWING POINT SELLIER

To be able to do the technique with a saddle stitch seam of leather, you must master the stitch. We advise you to see our complete guide on this method.

SEE THE GUIDE >


VIDEO TUTORIAL: MAKE A PAIR OF LEATHER BAG HANDLES

The tubular handle brings a sophisticated touch to your creation of your leather goods, it is the detail that will change your entire bag. The strap sits straight on the body of the bag and the strand is invisible. For this tutorial we chose a strand with a diameter of 7 mm.

1- Cut two strips of leather for the pair of handles

Cut two strips 4 cm wide and at least 60 cm long. Use a strap cutter for firm leathers or a ruler and cutter for soft leathers.

cut leather strap cutter

2- Work the ends of the handles

Let your creativity speak for itself on the shape of the ends of the handles: rounded, pointed, trapezoid... We chose to only round the corners (radius 10 mm).

cut leather strap end

3- Cut, trim and glue the strand

At each end, make a first mark at 4 cm to identify where the gluing stops (dimension equivalent to the width of the strip) . Make a second mark 5 cm away for the position of the strand. The strand will not be visible.

leather strand length

To know the necessary length of strand, take the measurement between the 2 lines made 5 cm from each end. For a 60 cm handle, you will need 50 cm of strand.

leather strand length

Put masking tape at each end of the strand to prevent it from disintegrating and to be able to trim it.

strand masking tape

Make a mark at 1.5 cm for trimming. Then trim the strand. The objective is to have a tip of approximately 1.5 cm. Be careful to pare on the same side on both ends.

trim strand leather handle

Make a mark in the center of the strip before gluing the strand. Then apply contact glue to the crust of the leather and the strand to position it. It is important to center your strand well so as not to have a “zig zag” seam.

install strand leather handle

4- Fold the leather over the strand to form the handle

Put leather glue all over the strip and strand. Wait a few minutes for the glue to soak in. Then start gluing from the center to avoid any offset.

fold down leather handle

5- Form the handle and mark the seam line.

Use a smoother to tighten the strand and mark the seam line. Mark the stitching points with a mallet and a tapping claw. The goal is not to pierce the leather entirely but only part of its thickness.

scratch leather stitching handle

6- Sew with saddle stitch

Sew the handle with saddle stitch. Finish the seam with 2 knots (inside) .

SEE THE POINT SELLIER SEWING GUIDE >

sewing leather handle

7- Cut the leather handle

Using a dry-point compass, make a mark 3-4 mm from the seam line. Then drill 2 semi-circles at each end of this mark. Then cut with a cutter or slicer.

cut excess leather

8- Work the slices

Sand the edges then apply at least 3 coats of edge finish, sanding between each coat.

bag handle

9- Scratch the ends of the handles

On each end, draw a seam line 3-4 mm from the edge. Then mark the stitching points (do not pierce the leather entirely).

scratch leather stitching handle

10- Glue and sew the handles to the body of the bag

Pass a thread through a stitch at each end of the handle and tie a knot. This allows you to always have the same gap when gluing: between 20 and 25 cm.

leather handle marking

Then mark the position of the handles on the body of the bag. Scrape the grain of the leather to facilitate the adhesion of the glue. Glue the handles and sew with saddle stitch. Finish the seam on the lining side by making 2 knots.

saddle stitch sewing

saddle stitch sewing

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  • SIMPLIFIED SEWING (WITH HOLES)

This technique is aimed at all those who have not mastered saddle stitch sewing. So-called simplified sewing consists of drilling/marking the sewing points using a round punch cutter. This “hole” and straight stitch sewing is ideal for beginners.

SEE THE GUIDE >

sewing bag with handle

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SUPPLIES

  • 1m50 of strand diameter 7 mm
  • 1 Seiwa cookie cutter 0.90 mm
  • 2 needles size 2/0
  • Braided and waxed polyester thread 0.80 mm
  • Neoprene glue or water-based leather glue

ASSEMBLY STEPS

The handles have a length of approximately 64 cm.

1- Download the PDF pattern below for the pair of leather handles and print it twice in full size.

DOWNLOAD THE PATTERN >

2- Cut out the pattern, leaving approximately 1 cm of margin around the pieces. Assemble the pattern and tape it to the grain of the leather using masking tape (so as not to damage the leather) .

3- Pierce the sewing holes indicated on the pattern with a round cookie cutter of 0.9 mm

4- Following the lines, cut out the 2 pieces of leather with a cutter.

5- Take the necessary length of strand (approximately 52 cm). You must remove approximately 6 cm at each end (the strand stops before the pointed end at the 2 central points).

6- Put glue all over the handle (except at the ends) and position the strand in the center (do not hesitate to make marks) . Then put glue on the strand.

strand leather handle

7- Wait a few minutes for the glue to soak in and fold the handle back on itself. Then flatten the bonding with a small smoothener or roller.

bonded leather handle

8- Sew the handle. Cut a thread 5 times larger than the length to be sewn. Thread a needle into each end of the thread. To start sewing: pass the thread through the first hole and even out the threads. Sew by passing each needle through each hole one by one. Finish the seam by pulling out the thread in the edge, tie a knot and cut the thread flush. To learn more about sewing leather “made easy,” check out our guide.

leather handle stitching

9- Work the slices with a slice finish. Apply at least 3 coats of paint and sand between each coat.

edge-finish leather handle

TADAM ⬇️ leather handle leather handles
SEE THE BAG TUTORIAL >

  • MACHINE SEWING OF THE BAG HANDLE

You are not a fan of hand sewing and you have a sewing machine that accepts thicknesses? We explain how to sew a leather handle by machine!

LEARN MORE ABOUT MACHINE SEWING LEATHER >

VIDEO TUTORIAL LEATHER HANDLE - MINUTE 13:22

Given that for machine sewing it is necessary to favor soft and not very thick leathers, the ends of the handles must be reinforced with tear-resistant tape and lined (on the ends) with leather of approximately 0.8 mm in thickness. thickness.
machine stitched leather handle

In addition, with machine sewing it is very difficult to sew the handle directly onto the body of the bag, so you have to make leather covers. The hooks allow you to attach the handle to the handbag using a rectangular or round loop.

handle diagram with covers

We invite you to watch the video above or check out step 4 of the “Leather Travel Bag” tutorial to learn more about this method.

SEE THE TRAVEL BAG TUTORIAL >

machine sewing bag handle

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If you've read the guide this far, you now know how to make a tubular leather handle. But it's not just the strand that allows you to sheathe a leather handle, we now explain to you how to make a leather handle reinforced with a collar strap.

BUT WHAT IS THE COLLET?

The flat handles/handles have a slightly more masculine side, they will be ideal for computer bags or leather briefcases.

FLAT LEATHER HANDLE TUTORIAL

flat leather handle

You must master saddle stitch sewing to be able to make these handles. We advise you to see our complete guide on this method.

SEE THE GUIDE >

VIDEO TUTORIAL: MAKE A PAIR OF FLAT LEATHER HANDLES


1- Define the shape of the reinforcement.

Take a collar strap 25 mm wide and 1.9 mm thick. Then cut the ends at an angle. The necessary length of strap must be defined according to the final length of each flat handle (8 cm must be subtracted from this final length – the ends are not reinforced) .

flat leather strap

Then slightly flatten the sides which will be at the level of a seam (do not flatten the longest length of the reinforcement) . You need to trim the grain side and the crust side of the leather.

flat leather guide strap

2- Cut a strip from the leather skin

For this tutorial we chose a leather from our Satinlys range (Brick Brown - Thickness: 1.2 mm - Reference: SY007). Given the flexibility of leather, we reinforced the body of the bag with Texon.

The width of the strip is defined according to the width and thickness of your reinforcement. In this case: width 25 mm and thickness 1.9 mm. You must then add 2x length (50 mm) + 2x width (4 mm) + add 8 mm (for the sewing line) = 6.2 cm width.

leather band width

The length of the strip must be 11 cm greater than that of the reinforcement. Example: if the reinforcement is 52 cm long, the strip must be 63 cm. The final handle will be 60 cm (after cutting) .

Don't forget to make everything double to have a pair of flat handles.

3- Stick reinforcement on the back of the strip

Draw a mark 3 cm from one of the edges (add 5 mm to the width of the reinforcement: 25 + 5 = 30 mm). This mark will allow the reinforcement to be glued there.

leather reinforcement mark

Position the reinforcement on the mark. Be careful to center it well before gluing.

flat leather strap reinforcement

Facilitate the adhesion of the glue with a leather rasp (only on the grain side of the reinforcement – ​​see step 4). Then apply contact adhesive for leather (neoprene or water-based) to the back of the strip and the reinforcement. Wait a few minutes for the glue to soak in then glue the reinforcement.

4- Form the flat handle

Put glue on the flower side of the reinforcement, apply it well throughout its thickness. Then use a folder/straightener to fold the strip onto the reinforcement.

form the flat leather handle

Then fold the leather over, starting from the center (do not hesitate to use a guide).

fold over leather strap

Also fold over at the ends where there is no reinforcement.

manufacturing leather straps

5- Mark the outline of the handle

Use a folder / smoother to mark the edges of the reinforcement and form the handle.

smooth contour handle

6- Cut the ends of the handle

Position a ruler (here 2 cm wide) at an angle and parallel to the ends of the reinforcement. Then cut.

cut leather strap

7- Trace and scratch the sewing line

At the ends of the handle, trace the seam line with a dry-point compass 3-4 mm from the edge.

draw sewing line

Then mark the stitching points with a mallet and a tapping claw. The goal is not to pierce the leather entirely but only part of its thickness.

claw to hit

8- Couple the excess leather

Using a rotary cutter, even out the edges of the leather.

cut leather strap

9- Sewing with saddle stitch

Thread a needle into each end of the thread and sew with saddle stitch.

SEE THE POINT SELLIER SEWING GUIDE >

saddle stitch sewing

Use a round awl then finish the seam by taking out the needles in the edge and tying a knot.

finish sewing saddle stitch

Smooth/hammer the sewing points using a smoother.

10- Work the leather edges

Sand the edges and apply at least 3 coats of finish, sanding between each coat.

SEE THE SLICE WORKING GUIDE >

slice work

11- Glue the handles to the body of the bag

Position the handles on the body of the bag. You must leave at least 1 cm of margin between the top of the body of the bag and the start of the seam of the handles.

sewing bag handle

Using a round awl, mark the position of the handles on the body of the bag.

mark lanyard position

Lightly scratch the grain of the leather to help the glue adhere. Do the same thing on the end of the strap that will be glued, be careful to do it only inside the sewing line. Then glue and hammer the collage.

leather strap

12- Sew the handles to the body of the bag

Sew the handles and finish the seam by tying knots on the side that will be lined. leather strap stitching

*The body of the bag has been reinforced with Texon. leather strap stitching

Do the same thing on the other part of the bag. Sew the second handle / handle.

flat leather handle

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  • FLAT HANDLES/STRAPS WITHOUT COVERING

bag handles

Make your life easier with our removable leather handles, they are ready to be attached, sewn and/or riveted to your handbags!

How to attach a bag handle to leather?

Opt for our pairs of already cut leather bag handles! They are available in several colors, widths (15.18 and 29 mm) and lengths (60, 70, 75 and 80 cm). For this type of handle, you only need 8 Chicago screws or 8 T3 to T6 rivets to attach them to your bag!

Pair of leather bag handles - 18mm - 60cmPair of leather bag handles - 18mm - 60cm
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leather bag handle

Then, let your creativity speak by adding or not adding buckles: rectangular loop, rotating carabiner, half-round ring...

attached bag handle

How to make a leather strap/shoulder strap?

As indicated in the introduction, a leather strap is on average 100 to 120 cm long.



If you choose one of our (soft) mineral-tanned straps to make your bag strap, we advise you to double it (sew two straps together) so that it is more resistant and prevents it from deforming. This will also prevent you from seeing the rind side which tends to bleed if the color of the strap is bright (the other option is to wax the rind side with tokonole) .

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leather sewing bag strap

TUTORIAL

For this tutorial, choose soft straps because leather is softer and therefore easier to sew by machine. We chose a GROGRAIN leather strap 2.3 mm thick and 40 mm wide: you should always take a width greater than the width of the final strap because the strap will be recut after gluing.

1- Put tear-resistant tape on the crusted sides of the straps to reinforce them and prevent them from stretching.

lined leather strap

2- Put leather glue on the back of the straps and laminate. Reinforce the bond using a steel roller.

glue 2 strips together

3- Define and trace the final width of the strap. Then overcut , this allows you to have very clean edges (be careful to choose a wider strap initially) .

strap cutting

4- Sew all around the strap 4 mm from the edge and with a Teflon presser foot.

sewing strap

5- Work the slices to have a professional finish (sand the slices and apply a finish/paint) .

working leather slices

For collar straps, we invite you to consult our guide “How to line a leather strap with velvet pork?” , you will also learn how to make an adjustable strap.

SEE THE GUIDE >

leather strap

What alternative to leather straps?

To give a more “rock” side to your bag, you can opt for a bag chain. There will always be the possibility of adding a leather band at the shoulder level. The links of our bag chains are non-welded which allows you to easily adjust the size of the chain. Several finishes are available: nickel-plated, gold, aged brass, gunmetal, etc.

SEE THE GUIDE >

bag chain

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