Guide | Saddle stitch sewing: how to sew leather by hand?

HOW TO HAND-SEW LEATHER?
VIDEO: SADDLE STITCH TECHNIQUE

 

STEP 1: bond the pieces to be sewn

1- Glue the leather pieces to be assembled with water-based leather glue - aquagum or neoprene depending on your project (in a thin line of approximately 4 mm). Apply glue to each piece: contact glue. Do not bond immediately, let dry for 5/10 minutes.

STEP 2: draw the stitching line

2- After assembling the pieces, draw the stitching line with a creaser, groover, or wing divider between 3 and 5 mm from the edge. The seam should not be too close to the edge of the leather.

STEP 3: mark the stitch holes

3- With a mallet and pricking iron: mark the stitch holes. The goal is not to pierce the leather completely but only through part of its thickness.

We chose to mark the points next to the traced line to keep a decorative filet (only possible on vegetable-tanned leather). For beginners, you can mark the points directly on the line.

We recommend using a plastic or polymer hammer to avoid damaging your tools.

STEP 4: prepare the sewing thread

4- Cut a linen thread: generally equivalent to 4 or 5 times the length of the seam line. If you need to make a long seam, take an arm's length = length of outstretched arms to avoid handling meters of thread. An arm's length corresponds to the "maximum amplitude" of your movements (depending on your build).

Wax the thread with beeswax: pass it through 3 times and wipe it. It is important to wax the thread before sewing to bind the thread fibers together, protect it, and prevent it from knotting.

Thread a needle at each end of the thread:

• Pierce the thread at needle height, then pierce it twice.
• Flatten the end of the thread and pass it through the eye of the needle.
• Pull on the thread to make the knot (see photo).
• Do the same to thread the other end of the thread onto the second needle.

Don't have enough thread to finish your stitching? We invite you to watch our video (from minute 14) where we explain how to make a splice. Purists will tell you it's forbidden, but it can sometimes be useful!

STEP 5: place the leather in the stitching clamp

5- Clamp the leather in the jaws of the stitching horse / stitching clamp and allow the seam line to extend approximately 4 mm above the jaws.

6- Pierce the leather with the diamond awl (diamond awl): raise your elbow to the height of the stitching line and form a right angle (90°) relative to the piece. Be careful to respect the piercing angle with the diamond awl, otherwise you won't have a beautiful seam.

 

STEP 7: start saddle stitching

The golden rule to follow is that you should always sew towards yourself. For aesthetic reasons, in our video, we start our stitching at the 4th stitch to make 3 double stitches and thus have symmetry with our ending stitch (the 3 backstitches) => to be done only if the seams do not meet.

You can also simply start your stitching from the first stitch by equalizing the threads or by making a saddle stitch (when you are at the edge of a piece - e.g., card holder).

• Left hand: pass the needle, using the awl blade as a guide (photo no. 1).
• Right hand: form a cross and pull the needle (photo no. 2).
• Pull the threads towards you to avoid tangling* and pass the needle (right hand) in front of the thread you just passed (photo no. 3).
• Take the thread from the left side and pass it over the needle outwards: make a comma shape (photo no. 4).

Our advice for a beautiful seam: practice! The movements must become mechanical.

 

*Tangle: when one thread enters the other thread (forms a kind of knot): a mixture of threads.

 

STEP 8: tighten the stitch correctly

8- Pull on each needle to tighten the stitch: left hand upwards and right hand towards yourself - diagonally at about 45° to the leather. You must tighten the stitch well (using your thumbs) and apply the same tightening force for each stitch.

 

STEP 9: finish the seam with backstitches

9- Make 3 backstitches with a round awl to enlarge the holes: do not make a comma / pass the thread over the needle. Cut the thread flush, then put a dot of glue on each side.

STEP 10: hammer the seam

10- Hammer the seam with a riveting hammer or a jointing hammer: pay attention to the striking angle and do not hit too hard to avoid damaging/marking the leather.

All that's left is to work the edges with an edge creaser, then an edge finish or a finishing gum (tokonole / tragacanth gum).

WHAT THREAD AND NEEDLE TO CHOOSE FOR LEATHER SEWING?

The most common thread diameter for hand-sewing leather is:

For leather goods (handbags, satchels...).

• 632 – Fil Au Chinois
• M50 – Meisi
• Ø 0.55 mm

For small leather goods (card holders, wallets...).

• 832 Fil Au Chinois
• M40 – Meisi
• Ø 0.45 mm

The standard round-tip needle (L3912) from Deco Cuir is size 002 - Ø1 mm. You can use this needle for all your "standard" leather goods creations. For small leather goods, prefer size 004 - Ø0.8 mm.

To learn more about choosing the right needle and thread for leather sewing, we invite you to consult our guide:

We invite you to purchase the book by Atelier Haptique "Techniques de sellerie - Maroquinerie" which details the specific steps of saddle stitching for left-handers.

TOOLS NEEDED FOR SADDLE STITCHING

STITCHING HORSE
The stitching clamp is essential for hand-sewing leather as it acts as a third hand to hold the leather piece. The clamp is positioned between your legs. We recommend protecting the jaws of your clamp with self-adhesive leather to prevent the diamond awl from damaging it. We also advise using a small 10 cm block under your foot to better stabilize the clamp.

AWLS
The round awl allows you to enlarge holes without breaking/damaging the thread, to help the needles pass, especially when starting and finishing the seam.

The diamond awl, also called a rhomboid or diamond awl, is used to pierce the leather before saddle stitching (hand sewing of leather). It is one of the most personal tools of the craftsman as the handle can be adapted to their hand.
Tip: remember to sharpen your awl well to avoid forcing it and damaging your leather.

HOW TO SHARPEN A DIAMOND AWL?

To achieve quality work, you need quality tools. To do this, remember to regularly sharpen and strop your tools!

LEARN MORE

MARKING THE STITCHING LINE
The creaser, groover, and wing divider are 3 tools that allow you to trace the stitching line: choose the tool that suits you!
The divider is practical for working in the middle of a piece, and the groover can also create a channel to recess the thread and protect the seam.

MARKING THE STITCH HOLES
The pricking iron or stitch wheel allows for evenly spaced stitch holes.

DIFFERENT CLAMPS AND STITCHING PONIES

Discover our comparative table of different clamps and ponies for hand-sewing leather.

Tool	Advantages	Disadvantages
Traditional stitching horse (between the legs)	- Industry standard, solid and durable - Very suitable for large pieces (bags, satchels, harnesses) - Good sitting stability – the end can be cut according to your sewing habits - Portable without a workbench	- Fixed position, leg/back fatigue - Bulky - Depending on the model, may be less practical for very thick or very rigid assemblies
Stitching pony (vertical clamp, placed or straddled)	- Higher position, relieves back pain - Suitable for larger pieces - Relatively light and portable	- Less common - Variable stability if not properly braced - Clamping sometimes limited
Bench-mounted stitching clamp	- Excellent stability - Adaptable height (ergonomic) - Very comfortable for long sessions	- Requires a sturdy workbench - Less mobile, fixed

 

 

Below is a quick summary of our favorite tools:

We have drawn on our experience to offer you a starter kit with the essential tools for hand-sewing leather (3 ranges: Essential, Essential +, and Premium).

HOW TO SEW CURVES?

The technique is the same for sewing curves! We recommend marking your stitches with a stitch wheel, which will be the easiest tool to use (or a 2-prong pricking iron). The piercing angle with your diamond awl must carefully follow the inclination of the stitches.

HOW TO SEW CORNERS AND WHAT IS DOUBLE-PRICKING?

Learn corner stitching by making a Choupette©. In this guide, we will cover various technical points, including double-punching and skip stitches!

VIEW THE COMPLETE GUIDE >

WHAT LEATHER SHOULD YOU CHOOSE FOR SADDLE STITCHING?

The ideal is to select a thick leather (at least 1.2 mm thick) and not too soft. We invite you to consult our guide on the different leather finishes.

WHAT LEATHER TO CHOOSE FOR MY CREATION?

HOW TO USE A STITCHING PUNCH?

The stitching punch will allow you to have a regular stitch. Several factors must be taken into account to have a beautiful stitch:

• Always keep the punch perpendicular to the leather and stable;
• Always go back 3 stitches;
• Always punch with the line on its right;
• Always start by working the corners with a 2-prong punch: the rule is that the stitch in the corner must always point towards the center of the piece. It is also possible to mark the corner with a round awl.
• Never use a mallet with a 2-prong punch, as you risk piercing the leather and damaging it.

There is no specific direction for holding the punch: the stitch is the same on both sides.
We recommend using a plastic or polymer hammer so as not to damage your tools.

The different types of stitching punches:

You can find 2 types of punches in our shop:
1- The pricking iron (straight line also called "comb") allows you to mark the leather with the correct inclination to facilitate the "insertion" of the awl.
2- The diamond pricking iron (rhombus) allows you to pierce the leather like pincers. Be careful to keep it perpendicular, otherwise your seam will be crooked on the back. If your leather is thick, we do not recommend piercing it completely but only a large part of its thickness (pre-drilling): otherwise, your stitch will not be neat (risk of having a larger stitch on one side of the leather).

For aesthetic reasons, we prefer the pricking iron.

What is the difference between a standard stitch and a reverse stitch?

The "reverse" punch stitch is symmetrical to the "standard" stitch. This stitch is generally used for double-punching or for making a join on a creation that has been sewn with a professional sewing machine.

Punches with a "reverse" stitch are generally called "left-handed punches": this is a misuse of language, as there are no left-handed or right-handed punches. As a reminder: there is no specific direction for holding the punch; the stitch is the same on both sides.

 

Which spacing (stitching punch) to choose?

The spacing is the distance between two stitches: it should be chosen according to the item you wish to create: an aesthetic choice. The "standard" for leather goods creations is 3.38 mm spacing - n°8 (3 stitches per centimeter). To know which spacing to choose for your creation, we invite you to consult our guide:

 

How to adjust the spacing/pitch of the last stitches?

When you only have a few stitches left to mark with your stitching punch, there may be a slight offset. You therefore need to adjust the spacing of the last stitches by eye or with the help of our plexiglass template to avoid these offsets (stitches that are too large or too small).

 

WITH A TEMPLATE

VIEW THE TEMPLATE PRODUCT PAGE >

BY EYE

WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN HAND LEATHER STITCHING AND MACHINE STITCHING?

Unlike machine stitching, the saddle stitch technique allows each of the two threads to pass above and below the layers of leather. The stitching is therefore stronger: if one of the threads breaks, the stitching does not unravel and can be repaired.

VIEW THE GUIDE >

Saddle stitching allows for a beautiful slanted stitch on both sides (front and back).

Other hand sewing techniques

Simplified stitching
Simplified stitching involves piercing the stitch points using a round punching hole punch. This straight stitch is mainly for beginners.

 

English stitch sewing

Discover the English stitch sewing technique: a simple and accessible method for everyone. English stitch sewing is done with a needle and thread. In upholstery, the English stitch is called "Backstitch" and in embroidery, the "Stem stitch".

 

WHERE TO LEARN SADDLE STITCHING?

Come and learn saddle stitching during a one-day training course at our premises located in Campbon, between Nantes and Saint-Nazaire (44 - Loire Atlantique).