Guide | Saddle stitch sewing: how to sew leather by hand?

HOW TO HAND SEW LEATHER?
VIDEO: SADDLE STITCH TECHNIQUE

 

STEP 1: bond the pieces to be sewn

1- Glue the leather pieces together with water-based leather glue - aquagum or neoprene depending on your project (in a bead of about 4 mm). Apply glue to each piece: contact adhesive. Do not bond immediately, let dry for 5/10 minutes.

STEP 2: mark the stitch line

2- After assembling the pieces, mark the stitch line with a creaser, groover or wing divider between 3 and 5 mm from the edge. The stitching should not be too close to the edge of the leather.

STEP 3: mark the stitch holes

3- Using a mallet and a pricking iron: mark the stitch holes. The goal is not to pierce the leather completely but only through part of its thickness.

We chose to mark the points next to the drawn line to maintain a decorative fillet (only possible on vegetable-tanned leather). For beginners, you can mark the points directly on the line.

We recommend using a plastic or polymer hammer to avoid damaging your tools.

STEP 4: prepare the sewing thread

4- Cut a linen thread: generally equivalent to 4 or 5 times the length of the stitch line. If you need to make a long seam, take an arm's length = outstretched arms so you don't have to handle meters of thread. An arm's length corresponds to your "maximum reach" (depending on your build).

Wax the thread with beeswax: pass it through 3 times and wipe it. It's important to wax the thread before sewing to bind the thread fibers together, protect it, and prevent it from knotting.

Thread a needle onto each end of the thread:

• Pierce the thread at needle height, then pierce it twice more.
• Flatten the end of the thread and pass it through the eye of the needle.
• Pull on the thread to make the knot (see photo).
• Do the same to thread the other end of the thread onto the second needle.

Don't have enough thread to finish your sewing? We invite you to watch our video (starting from minute 14) where we explain how to make a splice. Purists will tell you it's forbidden, but it can sometimes be useful!

STEP 5: place the leather in the stitching clamp

5- Clamp the leather in the jaws of the stitching clamp / stitching pony, leaving the stitch line extending about 4 mm above the jaws.

6- Pierce the leather with the diamond awl (diamond awl): raise your elbow to the height of the stitch line and form a right angle (90°) relative to the piece. Be careful to maintain the piercing angle with the diamond awl, otherwise your stitching may not look good.

 

STEP 7: begin saddle stitching

The golden rule is to always stitch towards yourself. For aesthetic reasons, in our video, we start our stitching at the 4th stitch to make 3 double stitches and thus have symmetry with our end stitching (the 3 backstitches) => only do this if the seams don't meet.

You can also simply start your stitching from the first stitch by evening out the threads or by making a saddle stitch (when you are at the edge of a piece - e.g. card holder).

• Left hand: pass the needle, using the awl's blade (photo n°1).
• Right hand: form a cross and pull the needle (photo n°2).
• Pull the threads towards you to avoid tangling* and pass the needle (right hand) in front of the thread you just passed (photo n°3).
• Take the left-side thread and pass it over the needle outwards: make a comma shape (photo n°4).

Our advice for beautiful stitching: practice! The movements need to become automatic.

 

*Tangle: when one thread gets caught in the other thread (forms a kind of knot): a mix of threads.

 

STEP 8: tighten the stitch correctly

8- Pull on each needle to tighten the stitch: left hand up and right hand towards you - diagonally at about 45° to the leather. You must tighten the stitch well (using your thumbs) and apply the same tightening force for each stitch.

 

STEP 9: finish the stitching with backstitches

9- Make 3 backstitches with a round awl to enlarge the holes: do not make a comma / pass the thread over the needle. Cut the thread flush and then apply a dab of glue to each side.

STEP 10: hammer the seam

10- Hammer the seam with a riveting hammer or a joining hammer: pay attention to the striking angle and do not hit too hard to avoid damaging/marking the leather.

All that's left is to finish the edges with a beveler, then an edge finish or a finishing gum (tokonole / tragacanth gum).

WHAT THREAD AND NEEDLE TO CHOOSE FOR SEWING LEATHER?

The most commonly used thread diameter for hand sewing leather is:

For leather goods (handbags, satchels...).

• 632 – Fil Au Chinois
• M50 – Meisi
• Ø 0.55 mm

For small leather goods (card holders, wallets...).

• 832 Fil Au Chinois
• M40 – Meisi
• Ø 0.45 mm

The standard round-tip needle (L3912) from Deco Cuir is size 002 - Ø1 mm. You can use this needle for all your "standard" leather goods creations. For small leather goods, prefer size 004 - Ø0.8 mm.

To learn more about choosing the right needle and thread for leather sewing, we invite you to consult our guide:

We invite you to get Atelier Haptique's book "Saddlery - Leather Goods Techniques" which details the specific steps of saddle stitching for left-handed individuals.

TOOLS NEEDED FOR SADDLE STITCHING

STITCHING PONY
The stitching pony is essential for hand sewing leather as it will serve as a third hand to hold the leather piece. The pony is positioned between the legs. We recommend protecting the jaws of your pony with self-adhesive leather to prevent the diamond awl from damaging them. We also recommend using a small wedge about 10 cm under your foot for better stability of the pony.

AWLS
The round awl allows you to enlarge holes without breaking/damaging the thread, helping the needles pass, especially for starting and finishing the stitching.

The diamond awl, also called a rhomboid or diamond awl, is used to pierce leather before saddle stitching (hand leather stitching). It is one of the craftsman's most personal tools, as the handle can be adapted to their hand.
Tip: remember to sharpen your awl well to avoid forcing it and damaging your leather.

HOW TO SHARPEN A DIAMOND AWL?

To achieve quality work, you need quality tools. Therefore, remember to regularly sharpen and strop your tools!

LEARN MORE

MARKING THE STITCH LINE
The creaser, groover, and wing divider are 3 tools used to mark the stitch line: choose the tool that suits you best!
The compass is practical for reaching the middle of a piece, and the groover can also cut a groove to recess the thread and protect the stitching.

MARKING THE STITCH HOLES
The pricking iron or stitch marking wheel allows for evenly spaced stitch holes.

DIFFERENT STITCHING CLAMPS AND PONIES

Discover our comparative table of different clamps and ponies for hand leather stitching.

Tool	Advantages	Disadvantages
Traditional stitching pony (between the legs)	- Industry standard, strong and durable - Very suitable for large pieces (bags, satchels, harnesses) - Good seated stability – the end can be cut according to your stitching habits - Portable without a workbench	- Fixed position, leg/back fatigue - Bulky - Depending on the model, may be less practical for very thick or very rigid assemblies
Stitching horse (vertical clamp, placed or straddled)	- Higher position, relieves back - Suitable for larger pieces - Relatively light and portable	- Less common - Variable stability if not properly secured - Clamping sometimes limited
Bench vise to attach to workbench	- Excellent stability - Adjustable height (ergonomic) - Very comfortable for long sessions	- Requires a sturdy workbench - Not very mobile, fixed

 

 

Below is a quick summary of our favorite tools:

We have relied on our experience to offer you a starter kit with essential tools for hand sewing leather (3 ranges: Essential, Essential +, and Premium).

HOW TO SEW CURVES?

The technique is the same for curved stitching! We invite you to mark your stitches with a stitching wheel, which will be the easiest tool to use (or a 2-prong pricking iron). The piercing angle with your diamond awl must follow the inclination of the stitches.

HOW TO SEW CORNERS AND WHAT IS DOUBLE PRICKING?

Learn corner stitching by making a Choupette©. In this guide, we will cover various technical points, including double creasing and missing stitches!

VIEW FULL GUIDE >

WHAT LEATHER SHOULD YOU CHOOSE FOR SADDLE STITCHING?

Ideally, select a thick leather (at least 1.2 mm thick) that is not too supple. We invite you to consult our guide on different leather finishes.

WHAT LEATHER SHOULD I CHOOSE FOR MY CREATION?

HOW TO USE A PRICKING IRON?

The pricking iron will allow you to achieve a regular stitch. Several factors need to be considered for a beautiful stitch:

• Always keep the pricking iron perpendicular to the leather and stable;
• Always go back 3 stitches;
• Always prick with the edge on your right;
• Always start by working the corners with a 2-tooth pricking iron: the rule is that the stitch in the corner should always point towards the center of the piece. It is also possible to mark the corner with a round awl.
• Never use a mallet with a 2-tooth pricking iron, as there is a risk of piercing and damaging the leather.

There is no specific direction to hold the pricking iron: the stitch is the same on both sides.
We recommend using a plastic or polymer hammer to avoid damaging your tools.

The different types of pricking irons:

You can discover 2 types of pricking irons in our shop:
1- Pricking point pricking irons (straight line also called "comb") allow you to mark the leather with the correct inclination to facilitate the "insertion" of the awl.
2- Diamond point pricking irons (rhombus) allow you to pierce the leather like pincers. Be careful to keep it perpendicular, otherwise your seam will be crooked on the back. If your leather is thick, we do not recommend piercing it completely, but only a large part of its thickness (pre-drilling): otherwise your stitch will not be pretty (risk of having a larger stitch on one side of the leather).

For aesthetic reasons, we prefer the pricking point.

What is the difference between a standard stitch and a reversed stitch?

The "reversed" pricking iron stitch is symmetrical to the "standard" stitch. This stitch is generally used for double-pricking or for making a join on a creation that has been sewn with a professional sewing machine.

Pricking irons with a "reversed" stitch are generally called "left-handed pricking irons": this is a misnomer, as there are no left-handed or right-handed pricking irons. As a reminder: there is no specific way to hold the pricking iron, the stitch is the same on both sides.

 

Which stitch spacing (pricking iron) to choose?

The stitch spacing is the distance between two stitches: it should be chosen according to the item you wish to create: an aesthetic choice. The "standard" for leather goods creations is 3.38 mm spacing - n°8 (3 stitches per centimeter). To know which spacing to choose for your creation, we invite you to consult our guide:

 

How to adjust the spacing of the last stitches?

When you have only a few stitches left to mark with your pricking iron, there may be a slight offset. You therefore need to adjust the spacing of the last stitches by eye or with the help of our plexiglass template to avoid these offsets (stitches that are too large or too small).

 

WITH A TEMPLATE

VIEW THE TEMPLATE PRODUCT PAGE >

BY EYE

WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN HAND STITCHING LEATHER AND MACHINE STITCHING?

Unlike machine stitching, the saddle stitch technique allows each of the two threads to pass over and under the layers of leather. The seam is therefore stronger: if one of the threads breaks, the seam does not unravel and can be repaired.

VIEW THE GUIDE >

Leather saddle stitching produces a beautiful slanted stitch on both sides (front and back).

Other hand stitching techniques

Simplified stitching
The simplified stitching method involves piercing the stitch points using a round punch. This straight stitch method is mainly aimed at beginners.

 

English point stitching

Discover the technique of English point stitching: a simple and accessible method for everyone. English point stitching is done with one thread and one needle. In upholstery, English point is called "Backstitch" and in embroidery, "Stem stitch".

 

WHERE TO TRAIN IN SADDLE STITCHING?

Come and learn saddle stitching during a one-day training course at our premises located in Campbon between Nantes and Saint-Nazaire (44 - Loire Atlantique).