Before embarking on leather sewing projects, we recommend doing preliminary tests to assess your machine's power.
Unlike fabric sewing, there are no seam allowances to add to patterns. Don't rush when machine-sewing leather: once the leather is stitched, small holes are visible when unpicking!
WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN HAND SEWING AND MACHINE SEWING LEATHER?
SADDLE STITCH (HAND SEWING):
The saddle stitch works by passing each of the two threads over and under the layers of leather. If one thread breaks, the seam does not unravel and can easily be repaired (e.g., second line).
MACHINE SEWING:
With machine sewing, the threads never pass through both layers of leather. The seam is therefore more fragile and will unravel easily and completely if one of the threads breaks (e.g., second line).
The saddle stitch is therefore more aesthetic and stronger than machine stitching but requires much more time and patience. Machine sewing is perfectly suitable for assemblies that will not be subjected to high tension.
WHAT IS A SPEEDY STITCHER?
The automatic awl, also called a speedy stitcher, is a tool designed for people new to leatherworking: it allows for fast leather sewing thanks to an automatic mechanism. Be careful, it does not allow for a saddle stitch but a "machine" stitch. We do not recommend it if you want a strong and "traditional" leather seam.
HOW TO SEW LEATHER WITH A SEWING MACHINE?
Do you have a domestic sewing machine and want to start sewing leather? Here are some essential points to know before you start:
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The sewing machine: the ideal machine for sewing leather is one that is powerful enough, equipped with a double or even triple feed.
If you use a domestic sewing machine, it is possible to equip it with a dual-feed foot to facilitate the feeding of the leather.
However, we do not recommend sewing leather with an entry-level domestic machine, which may lack power and consistency, especially for thick leathers.
Unfortunately, we cannot recommend a specific machine as it will depend on the use (personal or professional). We are fans of the Toyota Power Fabric (we use it for all our tutorials) but it is unfortunately no longer available (perhaps on second-hand sites). Singer has released an industrial sewing machine specifically for leather - reference 9900 (we have a partnership with them - see the article below). Many machines are compatible with leather sewing but you should directly ask sellers: PFAFF Ambition 610/620 - PFAFF Passport 3.0 - Veritas Power Stitch - Juki TL 2300 Sumato (for example).
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Choosing the leather: if you don't have a professional machine specifically for leather sewing, you cannot choose leather that is too thick (at the risk of damaging the leather grain and your machine).
We therefore advise you to select thin and supple leathers (0.8 to 1 mm - maximum 1.2 mm thick) – for example, leathers from the Sweet 2, Nappa Calf, Granite, or Satinlys ranges.
To determine the maximum thickness your machine can handle, we invite you to do preliminary tests. The thicker the leather, the more powerful your sewing machine's motor will need to be. Don't forget to adjust your machine's tension properly.
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Beige
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White
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Blue
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Gray
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YELLOW
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Brown
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Black
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Orange
- +4 shades
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Blue
- Stitch length: set your machine to a long stitch (but not too long) to prevent the leather from tearing: a stitch length of 3 to 3.5 mm (short stitches are so close together that over time they will tear the leather).
- The thread spool: prefer polyester thread with a diameter of 0.35 to 0.50 mm (No. 40, No. 30, or No. 20) for leather goods and small leather goods.
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Clip clamps: they are ideal for assembling and holding leather pieces during machine sewing or gluing. Very practical, they avoid piercing the leather with pins. Alternatives: double-sided adhesive tape or water-based glue.
Tip for adhesive tape: make sure to position it within the seam allowance, and not on the sewing line. Placed on the sewing line, the adhesive may clog the needle and interfere with proper sewing.
- Teflon / non-stick presser foot: to move your leather piece more easily and have regular stitches (available on our website).
- Which needle to use for machine sewing leather? We recommend using special leather machine needles. These needles are made of hardened steel and are therefore very strong (the risk of breakage is lower). Sharp-point needle for piercing leather. Size (NM) 90 to 120.
HOW TO READ A NEEDLE PLATE?
Needle size is often designated by NM or SIZE, both representing the diameter of the needle shank (SIZE is the diameter of the needle shank in the Singer and American system).
The Metric Number (NM) is equivalent to the needle shank diameter x 100
In the example below, the needles have an NM 110 and SIZE 18. The needle diameter is therefore 1.1 mm (110/100 = 1.1).
WHICH NEEDLE TO CHOOSE BASED ON THREAD DIAMETER?
Here is a table (for guidance only) to help you.
| Thread Diameter | Needle NM |
| Polyester thread No. 40 – Diameter 0.35 mm | 90 - 100 |
| Polyester thread No. 30 – Diameter 0.41 mm | 100 - 110 |
| Polyester thread No. 20 – Diameter 0.50 mm | 110 - 130 |
No. 40 thread is generally used for small leather goods or with thin leathers (e.g., clothing). No. 30 thread for leather goods and No. 20 thread for saddlery.
IN ADDITION TO OUR ARTICLE:
We invite you to consult blogger Jane Emilie's article "What materials for sewing bags?".
LEATHER TUTORIALS
WITH MACHINE SEWING
| LEATHER TOTE BAG | LEATHER POUCH |
LEATHER SLIPPERS |
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11 comments
Deco Cuir
Bonjour,
Si vous utilisez un fil n°30 pour la couture de votre sac cabas vous pouvez garder le même diamètre de fil pour votre canette. Vous pouvez aussi choisir de prendre un diamètre légèrement plus fin le N°40 : https://www.decocuir.com/collections/fil-polyester-n40
En ce qui concerne le réglage de votre tension, tout dépendra de votre machine et de l’épaisseur à coudre. Il faut toujours faire des tests sur des chutes de cuir de même épaisseur pour la régler et avoir le point le plus joli possible.
Bonne journée,
L’équipe Deco Cuir
Mel
Bonjour,
Pour un sac cabas, avec fil de 30 et aiguille cuir 100/110, quel fil utiliser dans la canette ? Le même ? Quelle tension appliquée également ?
Je vous remercie pour vos retours.
Exotica leathers
The step-by-step guide provided clear instructions and helpful tips that made sewing leather with a machine much easier. I appreciate your assistance
Deco Cuir
Bonjour,
Pour la couture du cuir avec une machine familiale nous vous conseillons de choisir du fil polyester n°30 (notamment pour la couture d’un sac cabas) : https://www.decocuir.com/collections/fil-polyester-n30 Je vous conseille la marque GRAL. Ainsi que des aiguilles pour cuir n°90 ou 100 : https://www.decocuir.com/products/5-aiguilles-machine-a-coudre-assortiment-n80-n90-n100-schmetz
Bonne journée,
L’équipe Deco Cuir
Fabienne
Bonjour. J’ai une machine familiale janome magenta 43. Et je veux coudre un cabas, quel fil, cuir et aiguilles utilisés. Merci
Anonymous
Bonjour Cathy,
Pour une couture du cuir à la machine à coudre, nous vous conseillons d’utiliser un cuir fin et souple et du fil polyester : https://www.decocuir.com/products/bobine-fil-polyester-gral-n30-1000m-noir-u9500
Vous n’avez pas besoin d’huiler le cuir et les coutures.
Bonne création,
L’équipe Deco Cuir
Cathy LEROY
Bonjour,
Je souhaite faire un ours (brun) et un chiot (tricolore) en cuir (j’ai les patrons), couture traditionnelle : quel cuir et quel fil dois-je utiliser ? Dois-je huiler le cuir ? Les coutures ?
Merci d’avance pour vos réponses.
Cathy.
Anonymous
Bonjour,
Pour la confection d’un gilet en cuir d’époque nous vous conseillons un cuir d’agneau (l’idéal tannage végétal). Nous avons une gamme de basane (provenance d’une mégisserie française), n’hésitez pas à aller voir les peaux : https://www.decocuir.com/collections/peau-cuir-agneau-basane-france
Pour votre toutes nos peaux d’agneau c’est par ici : https://www.decocuir.com/collections/cuir-peau-entiere-agneau-basane
Bonne journée,
L’équipe Deco Cuir
Brühlmann
Bonjour je souhaite coudre un gilet d’époque Renaissance en cuir, quel type me conseillez-vous? Merci pour votre retour.
Anonymous
Bonjour Patrick,
Nous vous conseillons de sélectionner l’un de nos cuirs de sellerie automobile qui conviendra parfaitement à ce type de rénovation : https://www.decocuir.com/peau-cuir-automobile-anti-uv-humidite-protege-c102x2387898 Afin de savoir quelle dimension prendre, nous vous invitons à aller voir notre tableau sur la dimension des peaux de cuir : https://www.decocuir.com/cuir-creation-acheter-guide-c1200x66992
L’équipe Deco Cuir
Anonymous
Bonjour,
Je souhaite remplacer un soufflet de levier de vitesse et un soufflet de frein à main qui sont très fatigués par du cuir.
Quelle dimension et quelle qualité me conseillez-vous ?
Merci pour votre réponse.
Cordialement