Before starting the manufacturing stage, here are some technical basics.
LEXICON
HORNS
The lugs are located on each side of the case and allow the watch strap to be attached using a pump.
ENTRECORNE
This is the width between 2 lugs of the watch case.
PUMPS OR SPRING BARS
PUMPS : also called “bars” are essential for installing the watch strap to the case.
There are mainly 2 models:
- The classic spring pumps/bars which are the most used.
- Rapid pumps or flash pumps with lugs (compatible with all types of watches) .
There are also other models such as riveted T bars, also called “screw pumps”.
The ideal is to use the original pumps of your watch (only if they are classics) , in which case you will easily find them on specialized sites. If your original watch strap has quick release pumps (with lugs) we advise you to buy new ones otherwise you risk damaging your leather strap by trying to remove them.
For this guide, we mainly used classic push-ups (especially in the main video) . Here is an explanatory video for a watch strap with quick pumps (lug pumps) .
THE PUMP FLUSHING TOOL
Beyond the tools needed for working with leather, this tool will be essential for removing and putting the pumps on your case.
The pump flusher generally has 2 different ends: one end with a fork for integrated pumps and one end with a point for housings with drilled horns. This tool is also used to remove pin buckles from your watch straps (watch buckles also have pumps) .
As previously indicated, the flush pump generally has 2 different tips for pierced horns or for non-drilled horns.
The system is the same for watch buckles.
How to remove pumps to change watch straps?
Important : You must always remove the pumps on the reverse side of the bracelet in case the pump chaser slips and thus avoid scratching the case or damaging the grain of the leather.
Steps to remove your watch strap:
- Lay the opened bracelet flat and upside down on a clean surface.
- Depending on the type of horns:
HORNS NOT DRILLED
Gently insert the fork of the pump flusher between the bracelet and the horn of the watch case. Look for the part of the pump where it is possible to hold on (where there is a relief) and make a slight push inwards. Release the pump then repeat the operation with the other part of the bracelet.
DRILLED HORNS
Push the tip of the pump flush into one of the pierced horns of the housing to release the pump. Then, gently remove the bracelet with your second hand. Finally, repeat the operation with the other part of the bracelet.
You must proceed in the same way when you want to put the bracelet back on the case. You just need to make sure that both sides of the pump are locked (pull lightly on the bracelet to ensure this) .
Watch buckles
Watch buckles are generally pin buckles with a spring bar (pump) that can be removed to easily insert the buckle onto your watch strap. The pumps of the buckles are released in the same way as those of the watch strap: pierced or non-drilled side.
How to change a broken watch strap buckle?
Just like extracting the strap from the case, we advise you to do this step on the back of the watch ( to avoid damaging the grain of the leather if it slips) .
All you need is a spare watch strap buckle (see above) as well as a pump flush tool. To know the necessary buckle width, you must measure the width of the bracelet at the level of your old buckle and not at the level of the lug: some bracelets can be slightly thinned at the level of the buckle (2 mm less) .
Now that the basics have been covered, let's move on to making a watch strap.
What size watch strap should I choose?
We will guide you in choosing the width and length necessary to have a watch strap adapted to the size of your wrist.
Important : we do not recommend taking measurements of one of your old watch straps which, over time, may have been deformed/shrunk ( heat, humidity, perspiration, etc. ).
The first step is to measure the inside lug spacing in order to know the necessary width of the watch strap.
The standard widths of watch straps are: 16 mm - 18 mm - 20 mm and 22 mm.
The width of the lug, which is equivalent to the width of your watch strap, will allow you to define the total length necessary for the strap. Please note: if the “original” bracelet is too small, you will need to adapt the total length (refer instead to the wrist size). We invite you to refer to our table below which presents the “standards”.
Zoom on the different watch strap sizes
| Bracelet width or lug dimension | Commercial size | Bracelet lengths | Wrist circumference |
| 16mm | S | Long strand: 105 mm Short strand: 65 mm Total length: 170 mm |
<16.5cm |
| 18mm | M | Long strand: 115 mm Short strand: 75 mm Total length: 190 mm |
16.5 to 18.5 cm |
| 20mm | L | Long strand: 120 mm Short strand: 80 mm Total length: 200 mm |
18.5 to 20.5 cm |
| 22mm | XL | Long strand: 130 mm Short strand: 90 mm Total length: 220 mm |
> 20.5cm |
*Please note, the lengths indicated correspond to the lengths of the strands after sewing and without the length of the watch buckle. Table given for information purposes only.
Standard bracelets are approximately a “size L” length of approximately 20 cm. In general, the male wrist measures 15 to 19 cm while the female wrist measures 14 to 18 cm .
What is short strand and long strand?
The length of the bracelet is the addition of the short strand (also called loop strand) and the long strand (also called hole strand).
To put the watch on easily, the short end is at the top of the case and the long end at the bottom of the case.
It is possible that the width at the buckle is 2 mm less than that of the lug.
Example for a size L : the width at the lug level is 20 mm and the width at the buckle level is 18 mm.
It is usually indicated on watch straps the sizes 20/20 or 20/18…
On our pattern, we tried to offer several variations of the standards (18/16, 18/18, 20/20...) .
How many holes are there on the long strand?
Generally there are:
- 7 holes on a women's watch strap
- 9 to 10 holes on a men's watch strap
The center of the first hole is located 2.5 cm from the end of the watch strap ( where there is an ogive, trapezoid, round end, etc. ) except for bracelets which have a difference of 2 mm between the lug and the width of the loop. In this case, the first hole is generally 2 cm away.
What is the diameter of the watch strap holes?
Just like for the chainstay on the short strand, the diameter of the holes on the long strand is equal to the width of the buckle barb.
The diameter of a hole on a watch strap is on average 1.5 to 2 mm.
The spacing between each hole is 7mm (center to center).
Make an enchapure
On the short strand it is necessary to make an enchapure in order to pass the pin of the watch buckle. The width of the oblong hole is defined by the width of the barb. Its length is on average 1 cm .
How to make the watch strap loops?
There are generally 2 loops on the short end . The first is blocked by a seam on each side (seam of the bracelet and seam at the buckle approximately 5 mm from the edge) , the second is free. It is essential to block one of the loops in the seam to prevent the movable loop from escaping.
The width of a loop is on average 5 mm, its length is equal to 4 times the total thickness of the leather added to 2 times the width.
For example if our watch strap is 2 mm thick and 16 mm wide: (4x2) + (2x16) = 40 mm
 |
 |
Zoom on the cut of the long and short strand on the outer side and lining
In the next step, we will discuss the choice of leather for the external strands and lining (animal, thickness, etc.) .
We invite you now to download our free pattern which offers the 4 standard watch strap sizes.
To make a watch strap you need to cut 4 pieces: 2 outer strands and 2 lining strands. All dimensions are given on our pattern.
CUT EXAMPLE FOR SIZE L 20/20:
Dimensions are given based on our mounting method. We remind you that there are several methods and that everyone must appropriate the information provided (no one has the absolute truth).
So that you better understand why there are areas to trim, here is a photo of the result after sewing.
CHOICE OF LEATHER
What leather should you choose to make a watch strap?
Classic watch straps are generally made from vegetable or mineral tanned calf/cow leather (for the outer strands the leather does not necessarily need to be vegetable tanned) .
We invite you to consult the guide below to learn more about the difference in vegetable tanned and mineral tanned leather.
Here is a selection of vegetable-tanned bovine leathers. We fell in love with our range of croupons which are perfectly suited to this (thickness of approximately 1.6 mm) :
If you want to give a more luxurious side to your creation, you can choose reptile (alligator or crocodile) , snake (boa, python, etc.) , fish (shark, shagreen, etc.) or ostrich leather. Please note that for most of these leathers, sale and import are regulated (CITES).
For this type of leather which generally has a thin thickness, we advise you to reinforce it with vegetable tanned leather 1 to 1.2 mm thick (see the video a little further down) .
Here is a selection of leathers for sale on our site:
 |
 |
 |
 |
What thickness of leather should I choose to make a watch strap?
Typically a watch strap with a flat structure has a total thickness of around 2.5 mm . The thickness can go up to 4/5 mm if you choose to make a convex structure (we will discuss the subject a little further down) .
If your leather for the external strands has a thickness between 1.5 and 2 mm we advise you to select vegetable tanned lining leather 0.5 mm thick.
If your leather for the external strands is less than 1.5 mm thick, we advise you to choose vegetable-tanned lining leather 1 mm thick.
If you choose a thin and fragile leather (like exotic leathers for example), it must be reinforced. Feel free to watch the video below to learn more about this technique.
Which leather to choose for the lining strands of the watch strap?
The lining leathers must be hypoallergenic, i.e. vegetable tanned to avoid any allergic risk. We recommend selecting vegetable-tanned leather 0.5 to 1 mm thick. The leather may appear “white” at first but it will patina over time and take on color (it will tan).
It is possible to apply a thin layer of natural gum (tragacanth, arabic or tokonole) to the back of the watch strap to protect it (at a minimum) from perspiration.
For the choice of glue we recommend a solvent-free, water-based glue .
Is it possible to give a curved effect to the bracelet?
There are 2 bracelet structures: either a flat structure or a curved structure. In this guide we will only see the flat structure.
To discover and learn more about the convex structure, we invite you to register for our training which takes place in our premises in Campbon.
So as not to leave you hungry: the bombé is generally made with a soul. That is to say a natural vegetable tanned leather of approximately 1.6 to 1.9 mm thick and which is trimmed and glued between the outer strand (the width of which is extended by a few millimeters) and the lining strand .
Please note that the curved structure is not over the entire length of the strands.
- On the short end, it stops at the loop seam.
- On the long strand, it stops 5 mm from the first hole for the watch buckle.
To give a rounded effect to your bracelet, it is imperative to master trimming the leather. Do not hesitate to consult our complete guide on this subject.
 |
 |
We advise you to watch the “Atelier SANG BLEU” video to learn more about domed watch straps here:
What are the steps in making a watch strap?
Focus on saddle stitch sewing
It is not possible to sew a watch strap by machine, sewing would be impossible at the loops.
Consult the guide on sewing leather with saddle stitch before you start making the watch strap.
Video
1. Detach the old strap from the watch case
Using a pump tool, detach the bracelet from the watch case. Also detach the buckle from the watch strap. You can keep the same buckle or choose to change it (we sell them on our site).
2. Set bracelet size
Measure the lug width then measure the width of the loop in order to choose the right pattern. The width of the buckle is also 18 mm. It will therefore be necessary to refer to a size 18/18 bracelet.
3. Cut out the pattern pieces
Cut out the pattern pieces by selecting the bracelet size that corresponds to the lug dimensions and buckle width (measured in the previous step). Then stick them on Texon or thin cardboard to stiffen the templates.
If the watch strap you want to remake is too small or much too large for you, we advise you to adjust the “standard dimensions” of our patterns. As a reminder, you can download the pattern here:
4. Cut the leather
Cut the 2 outer strands with a cutter using the templates. Do not hesitate to refer to the “Choice of leather” step in our guide. Then make a clean cut on each end.
Using a round awl, make a mark on each side of the dotted lines on the pattern (areas to be trimmed and area where the watch buckle is attached).
Then transfer these marks to the external strands (flesh side of the leather).
5. Cut out the lining
To cut the lining strands, we advise you to cut a strip at least 2 cm wider than the templates. The ideal is to overcut after gluing (to have a cleaner result).
6. Trim the ends of the outer strands
Make a new mark equivalent (in cm) to the distance between the end and the fold zone line. This mark will indicate the area to be pared with the knife. The idea is to have the same thickness over the entire strand when the end(s) are folded (for pumps or watch buckles).
Trim all ends indicated on the pattern. Be careful not to remove too much material.
Then put tear-resistant tape ( width 6 or 8 mm ) in the center of the external strands to reinforce the bracelet and prevent the leather from stretching. Be careful not to put it in the fold areas.
7. Trim, glue and overcut the lining.
Lightly trim both ends of the short strand (lining) and only the end at the pump for the long strand (lining) so as not to create extra thickness. Don't forget to check the length of the short lining strand on the pattern in order to adjust the length before trimming (the width will be overcut after gluing).
Then make marks on the flesh side of the short strand to determine the bonding area. A mark at 14 mm from the fold line at the level of the chainstay and another mark at 10 mm at the level of the fold area for the pump.
Then proceed to glue the long strand and short lining strand. We recommend the use of a water-based leather glue (since the bracelet is in contact with the skin). Be careful not to put glue on the fold areas.
To glue the lining strand onto the long strand we recommend making a boat fit: pull on the lining leather to give the leather a curved shape. Do not do this for the short end.
Smooth and flatten with a pressure roller.
To complete this step, overcut the lining after gluing.
8. Make the enchapure and work the loops
Position the template on the long strand and mark the location of the chainstay.
Make the enchapure for the passage of the watch buckle pin using a round cookie cutter (diameter of the width of the pin of the buckle) and a cutter or knife straight incise cutting.
Work the enchapure with a finishing eraser (e.g. tragacanth or tokonole). We do not recommend the use of an edge finish for this part which is too prone to friction. Then use pliers (leather tips) to mark the fold.
From the leather, cut a strip 5 mm wide for the 2 strap loops.
As a reminder, the total length of the loop is equal to 4 times the thickness of the leather added to 2 times the width.
The mobile loop will be sewn edge to edge. The second loop will be trimmed and only glued because it will be stuck between 2 seams.
Then work the edges of the loops with a edge finish.
Wait until the slices are dry and sew the movable loop.
Before passing the loop (non-movable) on the long section, scratch the grain of the leather lining which will be glued (to facilitate the adhesion of the glue) .
Then proceed to glue the ends. At the point of the pumps, use a needle to mark the fold.
On the short strand, pass the watch buckle pin through the chain.
The watch buckles also have a pump (so they can be easily removed/replaced).
Then pass the loop (non-movable) over the short strand and proceed with gluing.
Use a smoother to flatten the glue and mark the seam lines (parallel to the loop).
9. Work the end of the watch strap
Mark the center of the bracelet and use a template to define the shape of the end of your bracelet: ogive, round, trapezoid, ellipse, etc.
Finish the cut by sanding the slices with an abrasive sponge. Then flatten the 2 sides of the bracelet.
10. Trace the seam lines and mark the points
Below is an overview of the sewing lines to draw.
Trace the seam line using a dry-point compass 3 mm from the edge.
Then mark the sewing points (do not pierce) with a punching claw.
11. Sew with saddle stitch
Sew the long strand and the short strand using saddle stitch. For the choice of wire, we recommend a diameter between 0.35 and 0.45 mm.
Don't forget to hammer the seams.
12. Work the edges of the bracelet and nourish the leather
Check the width of the watch strap before finishing the edge because the leather may have been worked.
Sand the edges and apply up to 3 coats of finish (sanding between each coat). Do not work the slices at the level of the horns (to avoid creating excess thickness). Wax the slices to give them a shiny finish.
Nourish the leather with neatsfoot oil.
Optional: protect the lining side of the watch strap with a finishing eraser (here Tokonole).
13. Attach the bracelet to the case and make the holes on the long strand
Pass the movable loop and attach the case to the bracelet.
Using the pattern, mark the position of the holes (7 to 10 holes) on the long strand. Then drill the holes: the diameter is equal to the width of the barb. Reminder: spacing is 7mm center to center.
The watch strap is finished!
MAINTENANCE OF THE WATCH STRAP OVER TIME
How to tighten a watch strap?
How do I know if my watch strap is the right size?
To know if your watch is the right size, you only need to be able to fit your little finger between the clasp and your wrist. If your bracelet is much looser, it is not the right size.
How to maintain or clean a leather watch strap?
To keep your leather watch straps as long as possible, you must first take care of them. We advise you to store them in their case or stack them in a drawer of your wardrobe. This will also prevent you from scratching your watch case. To maintain it, you must of course pay attention to your movements and avoid any shock. After a while, it is possible to plan on polishing the case in a workshop to reduce scratches and micro-scratches.
To go further, make your own leather watch case
Make a leather pouch to protect your watches and store them.
We offer several different sizes to store 1, 2 or 3 watches.
Free tutorial and pattern here:
How to nourish and shine/revive a watch strap?
Here are some tips for keeping your watch strap for as long as possible:
- Avoid contact with water, humidity, perfume, body creams as well as prolonged contact with UV/sun rays.
- Change your watch or bracelet regularly to alternate and ensure the life of your accessory.
- Use a soft cotton cloth to remove dust and dirt from the case and your strap. When the leather starts to become dull, put a drop of care (e.g. Saphir universal cream or grease) on your cloth and nourish the leather by rubbing the cloth delicately (be careful not to use too much). We do not recommend the use of this cream on all leathers and we do not recommend the use of water or glycerin soap on your leather (unless smooth mineral-tanned cowhide leather).
- Do not overdo the cleaning
Is it possible to change your metal or silicone watch strap to a leather watch strap?
Yes, it is entirely possible to change a silicone or metal watch strap for a leather strap. The only condition is that your watch strap must be attached to the case using pumps.
How do I repair the damaged edges of my bracelet?
- Detach the bracelet from the case (to avoid damaging it and make work easier).
- Sand the slices with an abrasive sponge (always in the same direction).
- Work all the slices, even those that are not damaged.
- Apply 1 to 2 coats of edge finish, sanding between each coat.
- Rub in beeswax and buff with a cloth.
- You can coat all sides of your bracelet.
To finish this guide, a question that some may be asking: on which wrist should you wear your watch?
Traditionally a watch is worn on the wrist opposite the dominant hand. For example, right-handed people will wear the watch on the left side: this will reduce the risk of damaging the case (hand which is least used) and will avoid any inconvenience (e.g. spilling your glass of water to check the time 😉).
This guide interests you and you would like to improve your skills and in particular learn the convex structure technique?
Sign up for our training: “Training workshop – Make an alligator leather watch strap”. The training takes place at our premises in Loire-Atlantique in Campbon.
 |
 |
You have finished your leather watch strap
 |
 |
 |
 |
