REQUIRED MATERIALS
To complete this tutorial, you will need:
- 1 soft calf/cowhide leather skin - 1 mm thick - 0.65 m² surface area
- 1 metal zipper (by the meter) – 6 mm teeth - 60 cm length + 2 top stops and 1 bottom stop
- 1 metal zipper – 4 mm teeth - 20 cm length
- 17 cm of sugherite reinforcement - 15 mm width
- 2 double cap T2 rivets
- 2 single cap T4 rivets
- Coated fabric for the lining (not sold on our site) 80 cm (width) x 100 cm
- Double-sided tape - 5 mm width
- A spool of #30 polyester thread
- A Ø 3mm round punch
- Thread and a needle for sewing the corners
- An installation tool and setting kit for the rivets
TUTORIAL VIDEO
1. PRINT AND CUT THE PATTERN
Purchase the paper or PDF pattern (print to actual size).
Seam allowances are included.
Cut and tape the pattern onto the leather using masking tape to avoid damaging the leather grain. Also position the pattern on the lining. Mark the center of each piece with a silver pencil (see pattern).

Punch the Ø 3mm holes indicated on the pattern, on pieces P1 and P5.

Cut the different leather and lining pieces with a cutter or a pair of scissors.
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2. WORK ON THE HANDLE
Cut a 17 cm piece of sugherite reinforcement.

Apply glue to the back of piece P5 and the front of the sugherite. Glue the sugherite to the center of piece P5, on the back.

Apply contact glue to the back of the sugherite and the back of piece P6. Then glue piece P5 + sugherite onto piece P6, back to back.
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Flatten the glued parts well with a bone folder.

Stitch all around the handle 3 mm from the edge.

Trim the excess leather and punch the Ø 3 mm holes again.

3. WORK ON THE EDGES
Work on the edges of handle P5 and main piece P1 where the zipper will be stitched. Apply a first coat of edge filler, then several coats of edge paint, allowing sufficient drying time between each application.
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4. PREPARE LINING P2
On the back of pieces P2, trace the dotted line of the pattern with a pencil.

Apply double-sided tape along this line (see pattern). Then fold the coated fabric over the adhesive tape to keep it in place.
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In the corners, use a round awl or a needle to form the folds. Then flatten the glued parts with a steel roller.
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5. OPEN ZIPPER WINDOWS
Cut out the zipper window of pieces P4 following the dotted lines. Then shorten the 20 cm zipper by removing 2 cm, to obtain a final length of 18 cm.

Apply double-sided tape to the back of the coated fabric, all around the zipper window frame (brown lines on the pattern). Then fold the coated fabric over the adhesive tape.
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Once the glued part is properly flattened, apply double-sided tape again to the folded coated fabric, all around the opening.

Position and then glue the back of one of the P4 pieces to the front of the zipper, then the back of the second P4 piece to its front. Then stitch all around the zipper using the appropriate presser foot.
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6. STITCH THE INTERIOR POCKET
Fold one of the P4 pieces in half, right sides together, placing the zipper on the fold. Do the same with the second P4 piece, also right sides together. Hold everything in place with sewing clips.

Stitch only the two widths of each piece, 1 cm from the edge.
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Turn the pocket right side out through the length side with the front of the zipper.
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Stitch all around the bottom of the pocket.

7. PREPARE THE MAIN ZIPPER
Take a 60 cm zipper by the meter. Using an appropriate tool, remove the metal teeth for 1.75 cm on each side of the zipper (about 10 teeth per side). Then burn the ends of the zipper, then attach the top stops. Thread the slider onto the zipper teeth, then attach the bottom stop with pliers.
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ZIPPER GUIDE
Learn more about zippers, especially top and bottom stops.
8. STITCH THE MAIN ZIPPER
Glue adhesive tape to both ends of P1.
Mark the middle of the zipper (on each side) to position it correctly. Glue the back of one of the ends of piece P1 to the front of the zipper, matching the centers.

Place the back of one of the P2 lining pieces on the back of the zipper.
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Align the pieces center to center. Then, stitch all along the zipper 3 mm from the edge.

Open the zipper and proceed in the same way for the other side (P1 + zipper).

Also glue the second P2 piece to the zipper, back to back.

Then stitch 3 mm from the edge.

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9. ATTACH THE HANDLE
Using T4 single-cap rivets, attach handle P5 to its designated spot on P1. Install the rivets without piercing the coated fabric, only the leather, so they are hidden in the lining.
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10. SEW GUSSETS P3
Fold pieces P3 in half at the marks, right sides together. Hold with clips.
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Sew both widths 1 cm from the edge. Trim the corners slightly, then turn gussets P3 right side out.
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Topstitch 3 mm from the edge on both widths and the folded length. Leave the bottom length open.
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11. SEW THE INTERIOR POCKET
Turn the bag inside out and assemble the remaining length of the two P2 pieces, right sides together. Hold both sides with sewing clips.

Then insert pocket P4 inside, in the center of the two P2 pieces. Align the length of P4 without the closure with the lengths of P2 and hold everything with sewing clips.
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Sew the length, leaving a 6 cm opening in the center to turn the bag right side out at the end.

12. SEW THE SIDES OF THE BAG
Assemble the sides of piece P1, matching the points: A1 with A1, A2 with A2, B1 with B1, and B2 with B2. Ensure the edges are well aligned so that the two ends of the zipper meet at the central mark of piece P1. Hold everything together with sewing clips.

Position one of the P3 gussets in the lining, ensuring its widths fit into the fold of the P2 corners. The unsewn length of P3 should be aligned edge to edge with P2. Hold everything with sewing clips.
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Finally, position the lining part and the leather part together, edge to edge. Hold with sewing clips.
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Sew this length of leather and coated fabric 1 cm from the edge.
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Repeat the same steps on the other side.

13. TURN THE BAG RIGHT SIDE OUT
Turn the bag right side out through the 6 cm opening left in the lining.
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Sew the opening left in the lining.

14. ATTACH THE GUSSETS
Sandwich the two corners of the inner pocket P4 within the P3 gussets. Pierce a Ø 3 mm hole and attach a T2 double-cap rivet on each side.

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Hand stitch the 4 corners of the gussets to the lining at the corners. Insert the needle into the corner of gusset P3, then into lining P2, at the positions indicated on pattern X. Make several stitches and secure with a knot.
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THE MAGIC POUCH IS COMPLETE!
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Also discover our men's version:
VIEW TUTORIAL >































































2 comments
Anonymous
Bonjour Aline,
Nous vous conseillons de vous rapprocher d’entreprises spécialisées notamment : BFM – Outils et machines pour cuir.
BFM concevra votre outil pour une gravure/marquage à froid ou à chaud du cuir.
Bonne journée,
Cordialement,
L’équipe Deco Cuir
Asson Aline
Bonjour je voudrais appliquer ma marque sur mes réalisations en cuir mais je sais pas et où trouver un pointeau je voudrais une orchidée d’un centimètre merci dans l’attente de votre réponse