COMPLETE SEWING GUIDE POINT SELLLIER
LEARN THE “TRADITIONAL” SEWING TECHNIQUE OF LEATHER ARTISANS!
Sewing the leather with saddle stitch allows you to obtain a beautiful inclined stitch on both sides (right side and wrong side).
SEE THE GUIDE >
Sewing leather made easy
So-called simplified sewing consists of drilling/marking the sewing points using a round punch cutter . There is therefore no need to pierce the leather with a diamond-tipped awl (and therefore no need for saddle pliers). This “hole” and straight stitch sewing is ideal for beginners .
The tools needed for simplified leather sewing
CHOICE OF YARN
It is necessary to have a thick thread to fill the holes (polyester or linen thread): a diameter of approximately 0.65 mm .
The thread diameter used in the photos is 0.8 mm (braided and waxed polyester thread).
NEEDLE CHOICE
It is necessary to thread 2 round-tipped needles Size 1/0 - Ø1.1 mm (ref. CA118_01) onto the thread.
GUIDE: WHICH NEEDLE TO CHOOSE FOR MY THREAD?
Unlike saddle stitch sewing, there is no need to make a "comma" ( pass the thread over the needle ) to have an inclined stitch on both sides => simplified sewing has a straight stitch.
CHOICE OF COOKIE CUTTER
Simplified leather sewing involves making holes approximately 0.9 to 1.5 mm in diameter and spaced 6.5 mm apart (center to center) in the leather in order to pierce the stitching points. Then it is necessary to pass each needle through each hole.
Many patterns today include this type of stitch.
SEWING STEPS
1. Place your template on the leather and hold it with masking tape (to avoid damaging the leather). Next, pierce the stitching points with a punching cutter. 
2. Cut a thread (polyester or linen): generally equivalent to 4 or 5 times the length of the sewing line . If you have to do a long seam, take a load = arms length so you don't have to handle meters of thread.
If linen thread: wax the thread with beeswax. Pass it 3 times and dry it.
Thread a needle at each end of the thread (see GIF):
- Stitch the thread at needle height then stitch it twice.
- Crush the end of the thread and pass it through the eye of the needle.
- Pull on the thread to make the knot.
- Do the same thing to thread the other end of the thread onto the second needle.
3. Start sewing
For a question of aesthetics, we recommend starting the seam at the 4th stitch in order to make 3 double stitches and thus have symmetry in relation to our end seam (the 3 stopping points) => to be done only if the seams do not come together.
You can also simply start your sewing from the first stitch by evening out the threads or making a saddle stitch (when you are at the edge of a piece - e.g. card holder).
- Sew by passing each needle one by one (or at the same time if you are comfortable) in each hole
- Tighten the stitch tightly.
Feel free to watch the video below which shows you an overview of the method ⬇️
4. Make 3 stopping points
- Make 3 securing stitches and cut the thread.
- If polyester thread: cut the thread short and then burn it.
- If linen thread: cut the thread flush and add a dot of glue using a round awl.
5. Hammer the stitching points with a riveting hammer or a joining hammer: pay attention to the striking angle and do not hit too hard so as not to damage/mark the leather. 
All you have to do is work the slices with a trimmer then finish the slice or tokonole / tragacanth gum.
USING THE LAMP >
WHICH LEATHER TO CHOOSE FOR HAND SEWING?
The ideal is to select thick leather (at least 1.2 mm thick) and not too soft . We invite you to see our guide on the different leather finishes.
WHICH LEATHER TO CHOOSE FOR MY CREATION >
FREE TUTORIAL IDEAS TO TRAIN
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Children's leather backpack |
Sheepskin leather backpack |
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Leather tobacco pouch |
Minimalist card holder |
LEATHER DECORATIVE TOOL KITS
We have drawn on our experience to offer you the essential tools for sewing leather by hand in a starter kit.
2 comments
Taleb
Bonjour
Merci pour tout les Tutos.
Mon rêve serais de pouvoir faire une formation dans vos locaux pour faire des sacs.
Maria cristina leal
Super