COMPLETE SADDLE STITCH SEWING GUIDE
LEARN THE "TRADITIONAL" SEWING TECHNIQUE OF LEATHER CRAFTERS!
Saddle stitching allows you to achieve a beautiful, angled stitch on both sides (front and back) of the leather.
VIEW GUIDE >
Simplified Leather Stitching
Simplified hand stitching for leather involves piercing/marking the stitch points using a round punching tool. Therefore, there is no need to pierce the leather with a diamond-point awl (and thus no need for a stitching clamp). This "holed" and straight-stitch sewing is ideal for beginners.
Tools Needed for Simplified Leather Stitching
CHOOSING YOUR THREAD
You need a thick thread to fill the holes (polyester or linen thread): a diameter of approximately 0.60 mm. The thread diameter used in the photos is 0.6 mm (braided and waxed polyester thread).
We recommend doing tests for small leather goods creations to favor a linen thread with a smaller diameter (0.55 mm).
CHOOSING YOUR NEEDLE
You need to thread 2 blunt needles, Size 002 - Ø1 mm (ref. CA118_010), onto your thread.
GUIDE: WHICH NEEDLE TO CHOOSE FOR MY THREAD?
Unlike saddle stitching, there is no need to make a "comma" (pass the thread over the needle) to get an angled stitch on both sides => simplified stitching has a straight stitch.
CHOOSING YOUR PUNCHING TOOL
Simplified leather stitching involves making holes approximately 0.9 to 1.25 mm in diameter and spaced 6.5 mm apart (center-to-center distance) in the leather to pierce the stitch points. Then, each needle needs to be passed through each hole.
Many patterns today include this type of stitching.
HOW TO MARK STITCH POINTS?
We recommend marking the stitch points directly on your pattern. To have the same spacing between points (and without a computer), we recommend using our Kutsch rule (rule for marking stitch points) and a round awl.
For stitching with holes, we recommend using the largest spacing of 4.00 mm or skipping 1 out of 2 points for smaller spacings (e.g., 3.00 mm spacing = 1 point every 6.00 mm).
As a reminder, for simplified stitching, we generally space our stitches (center-to-center distance) every 5 to 6 mm.
STITCHING STEPS
1. Place your template on the leather and hold it with masking tape (to avoid damaging the leather). Then, pierce the stitch points with a punch tool.
2. Cut a thread (polyester or linen): generally equivalent to 4 or 5 times the length of the seam line. If you need to make a long seam, take an arm's length = length of outstretched arms so you don't have to handle meters of thread.
If using linen thread: wax the thread with beeswax. Pass it through 3 times and wipe it clean.
Thread a needle on each end of the thread (see GIF):
- Poke the thread at needle height, then poke it twice.
- Flatten the end of the thread and pass it through the eye of the needle.
- Pull the thread to make the knot.
- Do the same to thread the other end of the thread onto the second needle.
3. Start stitching
For aesthetic reasons, we recommend starting stitching at the 4th stitch to make 3 double stitches and thus have symmetry with our ending stitch (the 3 backstitches) => only do this if the seams do not meet.
You can also simply start your stitching from the first stitch by evening out the threads or by making a saddle stitch (when you are at the edge of a piece - e.g., card holder).
- Stitch by passing each needle one by one (or at the same time if you are comfortable) through each hole.
- Tighten the stitch well.
4. Make 3 backstitches
- Make 3 backstitches and cut the thread.
- If polyester thread: cut the thread flush, then burn it.
- If linen thread: cut the thread flush and apply a dot of glue with a round awl.
5. Hammer the stitch points with a riveting hammer or a joining hammer: pay attention to the striking angle and do not hit too hard to avoid damaging/marking the leather.
All that's left is to work the edges with a creaser, then an edge finish or Tokonole / gum tragacanth.
USING THE CREASER >
WHICH LEATHER TO CHOOSE FOR HAND STITCHING?
Ideally, select a thick leather (at least 1.2 mm thick) and not too soft. We invite you to check out our guide on different leather finishes.
WHICH LEATHER TO CHOOSE FOR MY CREATION >
FREE TUTORIAL IDEAS TO PRACTICE
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Children's Leather Backpack |
Sheepskin Leather Backpack |
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Leather Tobacco Pouch |
Minimalist Card Holder |
DECO CUIR TOOL KITS
We have drawn on our experience to offer you a starter kit with the essential tools for hand-stitching leather.
Other hand-stitching techniques
Saddle stitch:
The saddle stitch is the most popular stitch among leather lovers because it is the strongest stitch. The specifics of this stitch: it requires two needles to sew leather with a saddle stitch, and the stitch is angled.
Backstitch:
Discover the backstitch technique: a simple method accessible to everyone. Backstitching is done with one thread and one needle. In upholstery, the backstitch is called "backstitch," and in embroidery, it's called "stem stitch."
3 comments
Laura Verónica Chámarez
Soy Argentina, quiero agradecer todo lo que aportan para la persona que desea trabajar de manera honrada.
Gracias, aprendo mucho con ustedes.
Gracias a Dios existe el traductor para que podamos expresarnos.
Saludos
Taleb
Bonjour
Merci pour tout les Tutos.
Mon rêve serais de pouvoir faire une formation dans vos locaux pour faire des sacs.
Maria cristina leal
Super