THE NECESSARY EQUIPMENT
To complete this tutorial, you will need:
- 1 or 2 hides of supple goatskin or calfskin suede, 1.2 to 1.4 mm thick. We recommend a surface area of 1.30 m2 or 2 hides of 0.65 m2.
- Fabric for the lining ( 140 or 120 cm wide x 90 cm).
- 1 spool of polyester thread no. 30 - 1000 meters
- 1 metal zipper - Length 15 cm
- 1 magnetic top clasp - Diameter 14 mm
And the following equipment:
- 1 stainless steel ruler
- 1 cutter
- 1 roll of double-sided adhesive tape - 4 mm wide
Machine sewing of leather
Discover, in the guide below, the essential points to know before embarking on machine sewing of leather (with a domestic machine).
Tutorial video
In this video, we've chosen to replace the leather straps with a pair of riveted handles on the bag. It's up to you to choose the option you like best (version 1 or 2) !
Video version #2
Trick
To finish the stitching, cut the polyester thread close to the thread and burn it.
1. CUT OUT THE PAPER PATTERN
Cut out the 14 pieces of the paper pattern and position them on the leather piece(s). For the bag handles (P14) : cut a 71.5 x 14 cm rectangle from the leather. Do not cut P14 if you are using version 1 with riveted handles.
Seam allowances are included in the dimensions given below.
Presentation of the parts:
- P1 / P2 / P3 / P4: 19 x 43 cm
- P5 / P6: 16.5 x 34.5 cm
- P7 / P8: 16 x 18.5 cm
- P9 / P10 / P11 / P12 : 2.5 x 27 cm. Depending on the size of your skin you can cut 2 strips of 54 cm (instead of 4 small strips).
- P13 : 3.5 x 4.5 cm
- P14 (not visible on the pattern - version 2 of the tote bag): to make the bag straps in the leather, cut a rectangle of 71.5 x 14 cm.
2. PIERCE AND CUT THE LEATHER
Secure the pattern pieces with masking tape (to facilitate cutting) or trace the pattern pieces with a silver pencil. Using a craft knife and ruler, cut out all the pattern pieces.
The visible holes (3 mm diameter) on the various pieces are for version 1 of the tote bag (handles with rivets). If you opt for the leather straps (version 2), there is no need to pierce the material.
3. CUT THE LINING
Cut out pieces P1 to P6 from the lining.
4. ASSEMBLE THE MAIN PARTS
Using sewing clips, position piece P1 on top of piece P3, right sides together. Then sew 1 cm from the edge, only along the side indicated by the arrows on the pattern. Start sewing from the top to avoid any misalignment. Repeat this process for pieces P2 and P4.
The visible holes (3 mm diameter) on the various pieces are for version 1 of the tote bag (handles with rivets). If you opt for the leather straps (version 2), there is no need to pierce the material.
Overcut if necessary after sewing to achieve a perfect finish.
The visible holes (3 mm diameter) on the various pieces are for version 1 of the tote bag (handles with rivets). If you opt for the leather straps (version 2), there is no need to pierce the material.
5. OPEN THE SEWS
On the reverse side of the leather, open the seams with adhesive tape and a steel roller.
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6. DO THE TOPSTITCHING
Topstitch on each side of the seam 3 mm from the edge on pieces P1/P3 and P2/P4.
7. Prepare the strips (Version 2)
Watch the video to learn more about version #2 and how to sew the bag straps ⬇️
Take piece P14 measuring 71.5 × 14 cm and cut it in half to obtain two 7 cm wide strips. On one of the strips, attach two strips of ripstop tape to prevent the leather from stretching.
Apply leather contact adhesive to the back of both straps, then glue them together. Flatten the glued area using a steel roller.
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From this doubled rectangle, cut two strips of 70 x 2.5 cm.
Make a mark 4 cm from each end of the strips. Topstitch the two strips 3 mm from the edge, stopping at the 4 cm marks.
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Position the straps using glue or double-sided tape on the locations indicated on the pattern on pieces P1 to P4. Sew the remaining 4 cm of the straps onto the body of the bag (make a rectangle) .
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8. SEW THE SIDES
Using sewing clips, position piece P5 at the top of one of the long sides of piece P1/P3. Sew the side seam, right sides together (1 cm from the edge). Always start sewing from the top to avoid any misalignment. Repeat this process for piece P6 on the other side.
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Then, open the seams with double-sided tape.
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9. SEW THE SIDES - COMPLETE THE ASSEMBLY
Position piece P2/P4 along the lengths of pieces P5 and P6. Sew the sides together, right sides facing (always start sewing from the top) . Then, open the seams with double-sided tape.
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10. Sew the bottom of the bag
Sew the bottom of the bag right sides together at 1 cm. Then, open the seams.
Ensure that the seams overlap.
11. SEW THE CORNERS
Bring the corners of the bag together and sew right sides facing. Do not open the seams as in the previous steps. Trim the edges if necessary to even out the corners.
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Turn the bag inside out.
OPTIONAL
BEFORE SEWING THE LINING
To give your tote bag a more "square" shape: attach magnetic snaps or strong snap buttons to each side of your bag about 5 cm from the top and 4 cm from the side.
12. SEW THE ZIPPER
Using double-sided tape, position the zipper in the location indicated on the pattern (P7). Sew the zipper using a zipper foot.
Place P8 on top of P7, wrong sides together. Sew all sides of the pocket flat.
OPTION: It is also possible to sew an invisible/slit pocket directly into the lining.
13. Attach the magnetic tops to close the bag
Trace the dotted lines on the right side of two P13 pieces. Place ripstop fabric on the wrong side and position a magnetic top in the center of the P13 tabs. Glue the tabs (to the other two P13 pieces) and then trim. Stitch 3 mm from the edge, except along the top width (this will be sewn in the next step) .
14. Sew the lining
Assemble the lining pieces in the same way as the leather pieces, without topstitching or opening the seams (this isn't necessary unless your lining is very thick) . Before finishing the assembly, sew the pocket and the P13 tabs to the top of the lining on the right side. Make sure they are centered.
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15. ASSEMBLE THE FACING
Assemble the four strips (P9/P10/P11/P12) widthwise, right sides together, to form a circle. Do not sew the facing completely so that the length can be adjusted in the next step. Finally, open the seams.
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16. POSITION THE STRIP
Apply adhesive tape 1 cm from the edge of the facing strip. Then, gradually position the lining fabric over the adhesive tape. Trim any excess tape and assemble.
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Sew the facing strip onto the lining at 0.5 mm.
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17. Glue the strip to the top of the bag
Position the lining in the tote bag and attach the strip using adhesive tape.
Add a topstitch to the top of the bag.
18. RIVETING THE HANDLES (VERSION 1)
Rivet the handles with the setting tool of your choice and double cap T3 rivets (only for version 1) .
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YOUR TOTE BAG IS FINISHED!
Tip: Consider waterproofing your bag with a water-based spray.
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