THE NECESSARY EQUIPMENT
- 1 piece of full-grain leather measuring 30x40 cm - Thickness ≈ 1 mm
- 1 piece of suede calfskin leather split of 20x20 cm - Thickness ≈ 1.1 mm for the soles (or use the split side of a full grain unsplit leather) .
- Approximately 65 cm of flat elastic - 5 mm wide (not for sale on our website)
- 1 piece of OEKO-TEX fabric measuring 50 cm (width) x 30 cm (not for sale on our website)
- 1 spool of polyester thread no. 40 - Diameter: 0.35 mm
- Leather glue
We invite you to check out our Sweet 2 or Granite ranges for your leather selection.
THE SHAPE IS IDENTICAL FOR THE RIGHT AND LEFT FOOT.
GET THE PATTERN AND THE FOOT METER
The pattern includes sizes 15 to 26 (0 to 5 years) as well as a foot measuring guide. By placing the child's heel on the measuring guide, you will know which size to sew!
Three options for purchasing the pattern:
- in digital version (PDF to print at actual size).
- in digital format with a permanent commercial license.
- in paper version (A2 poster which you will receive at home).
Available for sale on our website (reference KA229)!
Seam allowances are included except for the lining heel pieces.
GOOD TO KNOW: we sell complete kits made in our workshop with leathers from our Granite range or pieces of non-traditional leather.
HOW TO SEW LEATHER WITH A HOME MACHINE?
Please note that for this tutorial, we recommend a thin, supple leather that can easily be sewn with a standard home sewing machine (not a budget model). We suggest you consult our guide on machine sewing leather. You will need polyester thread and leather needles (size 90).
VIDEO - VERSION WITH FABRIC LINING
1. Trace and cut out the pattern
Trace and cut out the pattern pieces (available on our website - reference KA229) according to the desired size. Use the foot measuring guide on the back to choose the correct size. Seam allowances are included except for the heel lining pieces.
2. TRACE THE PIECES ONTO THE LEATHER
Using a silver pencil, trace the different pieces onto the leather and fabric (carefully position all the pieces before cutting). The two sole pieces should be traced onto suede (the fuzzy texture provides a non-slip surface) or choose a full-grain leather with a very fuzzy flesh side.
For the 2 heel lining pieces (fabric) , you need to add seam allowances: 7 mm on the right and left sides, and 15 mm in height. Mark the addition of these allowances with a pen (see step 8) .
3. CUT THE LEATHER PIECES
Cut out the pieces with a cutter or a good pair of scissors.
4. CUT THE ELASTIC
Cut 4 strips of elastic:
- 2 strips of 6 cm to be sewn onto the reinforcements for elastic (x2 in leather) .
- 2 strips the length of the reinforcement strip plus 2 cm (example: 2 strips of 22 cm for size 21-22).
5. PLACE THE ELASTIC IN THE REINFORCEMENT
Make an incision in the elastic reinforcement (x2 leather) and make two stop holes at each end (Ø 1 mm) . Fold the small 6 cm elastic strips in half and pass them through each incision in the reinforcement (about 3-4 mm) . Then sew (make a few stitches) .
6. SEW THE REINFORCEMENT
Sew the elastic reinforcement to the right side of the slipper upper lining (fabric) 2.5 cm from the top edge (longest edge) in the center for the first 3 sizes and 3 cm for the last 3 sizes (seam allowances included) .
CUSTOMIZATION OPTION
BEFORE SEWING THE SLIPPER UPPERS
Personalize the top of the leather slippers with a pattern, a bow, a name, fringes... Personalization ideas can be found on the pattern.
For those who own the Cricut cutting machine, many possibilities are available to you (feel free to check out our Cricut & Leather guide) .
7. SEW THE SLIPPER UPPERS
Sew the slipper upper pieces (leather + fabric lining) right sides together only on the upper part (longest edge) 1 cm from the edge.
Turn the piece over and then topstitch 3 mm from the edge of the slipper tops. Use sewing clips to hold the pieces in place.
8. STITCHING THE HEEL PIECES
To avoid bulkiness, assembling the leather heels and fabric lining is quite technical. We recommend watching the video (at the top of the blog post) .
Place the leather heel piece (wrong side - right side) on the right side of the heel lining (left side) and sew over the seam allowance added in step 2.
Repeat the same process on the other side of the heel: left side leather (wrong side) to right side fabric (right side) . Pay close attention to the correct positioning of the piece when sewing.
9. WORK ON THE HEEL OF THE SLIPPER
Apply a thin line of glue to the upper edge of the heel lining (back) and fold the fabric over the grain of the leather heel (front) .
10. MAKE A ZIG ZAG POINT
Make a zigzag stitch or overlock the unsewn sides of the slipper uppers and the bottom of the heels (to prevent the fabric from fraying) .
11. SEW THE HEEL REINFORCEMENT STRIP
Position the reinforcement strip on the top of the heel, wrong side to right side, and sew two parallel lines 3 mm from the edge along its length. Before sewing the bottom edge of the reinforcement strip, position the elastic band. Be careful to position it correctly so that it doesn't get caught in the seam. Trim any excess leather at the ends after sewing.
12. ASSEMBLE THE SLIPPER
Mark the center of the pieces and position the slipper upper (right side - grain side) on the sole (velvet/fleece side - wrong side if full-grain leather) . It is important to respect the orientation of the pieces so that once the slipper is finished, the velvet side of the sole will be on the outside of the slipper to maintain grip on the floor. Then attach the heel and use sewing clips to hold the pieces in place.
Start sewing from the center of the top of the slipper and then work towards the back. Sew 4 mm from the edge to avoid too much bulk in the slipper (sew approximately 2 mm from the zigzag stitch) .
13. OVERCUT THE SOLE
Overcut the sole of the slipper 2 mm from the seam (to avoid extra thickness in the slipper) .
Turn the slipper inside out and press the seams flat to give it a rounded shape.
14. TIE A KNOT WITH THE ELASTIC
Thread the large elastic band through the loop of the small elastic band and tie a knot. The position of the knot will allow you to adjust the tightness of the slipper around the baby's ankle. Tuck the knot into the reinforcement band to prevent any discomfort.
THE LINED PAIR IS FINISHED
BELOW IS THE OLD VERSION OF OUR LEATHER BABY BOOTIES
This version offers simpler slippers that are not lined with fabric.
1. CUT OUT THE PATTERN PIECES
Purchase the pattern and, using the foot measuring guide, select the desired slipper size (sizes 15 to 26 - 3 months to 5 years). Then, trace the pattern and mark the pattern pieces on the leather using a silver pencil. Cut out the pieces with sewing scissors or a craft knife. Seam allowances are included.
Cut 4 strips of elastic:
- 2 strips of 6 cm to be sewn onto the wrong side of the slipper top (see step 2) .
- 2 strips the length of the reinforcement strip plus 2 cm (example: 2 strips of 22 cm for size 21-22) .
Each slipper is made up of 5 pieces of leather :
- 1 heel
- 1 slipper upper
- 1 sole
- 1 heel reinforcement
- 1 motif (let your creativity flow: fringes, butterfly, star, teddy bear...)
2. SEW THE ELASTIC
Fold the small elastic band in half and sew it onto the wrong side of the leather (split side) of the slipper top: seam in the center 3.5 cm from the top edge (largest edge) for the first 3 sizes and 4 cm for the last 4 sizes.
3. Glue and sew a design onto the top of the slipper
Glue and sew the design onto the right side of the leather – the grain side. This will conceal the stitching of the small elastic band. Be careful not to sew through the elastic when sewing.
4. SEW THE SLIPPER UPPER
Position the upper of the slipper (right side - grain side) on the sole (wrong side - velvet/split side).
Tip: Use small clips to hold the pieces securely in place.
It is important to respect the direction of the pieces so that once the slipper is finished, the velvet side of the sole is on the outside of the slipper in order to maintain grip on the floor.
Start sewing from the center, then go towards the back and sew 4 mm from the edge to avoid too much bulk in the slipper.
5. SEW THE HEEL
Position the reinforcement strip on the top of the heel and sew it on the right side – grain side (make two parallel seams 3 mm from the edge along the length of the strip). Don't hesitate to trim any excess leather after sewing.
6. SEW THE HEEL TO THE SOLE
Position the heel (right side - grain side) on the sole (wrong side - velvet side) and sew it in place. Same tip: use clips and start sewing from the center.
7. TURN THE SLIPPER OVER
Turn the slipper inside out and press the seams flat to give it a rounded shape.
8. PASS THE ELASTIC BAND THROUGH THE REINFORCEMENT
Using a safety pin, pass the elastic band through the reinforcement sewn onto the heel.
9. TIE A KNOT WITH THE ELASTIC
Pass the large elastic band through the loop of the small elastic band and tie a knot. The position of the knot will allow you to tighten or loosen the slipper around the baby's ankle.
THE FIRST SLIPPER IS FINISHED, ON TO THE SECOND!
The shape is identical for the right and left foot.
Tip: You can add a little sheep's wool to the slippers to provide some softness and warmth.
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4 comments
DECO CUIR
Bonjour Sabrina,
Nous vous conseillons du cuir de notre gamme Granite ou Suave.
Nous ne proposons pas de patrons pour chaussons adultes.
Bonne journée,
L’équipe Deco Cuir
Sabrina Boisbourdin
Bonjour je souhaiterais acheter le kit pour faire des chaussons. Je voudrais savoir si vous pouvez me donner les références des cuirs à acheter pour refaire une autre paire pour mon deuxième enfant. D’autre part je voudrais savoir si il existe un patron pour faire une paire de chaussons adulte pour moi ? Merci
Anonymous
il y a très longtemps que je veux me lancer
cette fois c est la bonne je fonce
un grand merci pour tout vos précieux conseils
et vos tutoriels très précis et très minutieux
Anonymous
Superbe, ces chaussons sont parfait après des sorties hivernales.