What are the advantages of a running stitch?
One of the main advantages of this stitch compared to the saddle stitch is that it is almost impossible to mess up and does not require any specific tools.
This technique is particularly suitable for the following situations:
- Hand-sewing a zipper
- Hard-to-reach areas
- Hand-sewn turned seams
- Joining leather and fabric (practical for flexible materials)
The appearance of the stitch differs depending on the side:
It is considered a decorative stitch.
- On one side, it has a classic, stitch-by-stitch look
- On the other, a twisted look, known as a "cord" stitch
You can choose which side is visible according to your project. Here, we created the "cord" look on the back and the "stitch-by-stitch" look on the front.
Warning: if the "cord" effect stitch is done on the grain side (the visible side of your creation), the seam becomes more vulnerable to external wear (especially friction).
The different variants
The running stitch is done with a needle and thread. The stitch holes can be punched with a round 1mm Ø hole punch (for a straight finish) or marked with pricking irons and punched with a diamond awl (for a more slanted look, similar to a saddle stitch).
👉 Watch the technique on video!
1. Preparing the thread
Cut a length of linen or braided, waxed polyester thread. If you are using linen thread: wax it with beeswax (pass it through 3 times, then wipe it off).
GUIDE: WHICH THREAD AND NEEDLE TO CHOOSE?
Tie a knot at one end of the thread:
- Form a loop by folding the thread.
- Pass the end of the thread through the loop twice.
- Tighten to secure the knot.
- Cut the loop at the knot as well as the excess thread, then lightly burn the ends (only for polyester thread).
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At the other end, thread a needle:
- Pierce the thread about a needle's length from its end, then pierce it again twice.
- Flatten the end of the thread slightly, then pass it through the eye of the needle.
- Pull on the longest part of the thread, towards the eye, to form the knot that will keep the needle in place.
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2. Piercing the stitch holes
Two options are possible:
Straight stitch version:
Pierce the stitch holes with a 1mm Ø hole punch.
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Slanted stitch version:
Mark the stitch points with a pricking iron, then pierce the holes with a diamond awl.
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3. Sewing the running stitch
Start the stitching by passing the needle through the second hole, from the back or the front of the leather, depending on the desired look.
To obtain a "cord" effect on the back, place the knot on the back of the leather.
Then, pass the needle through the first hole on the front of the leather.
Next, repeat the following motion:
➡️ move forward two holes, then move back one hole
Use a diamond awl to get a slanted stitch (version with marking irons).
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Continue like this until the end of the seam. Always make sure to keep the thread loop downwards and to pass the needle through the top of the seam for an even finish.
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4. Finishing the seam
At the end, there are two options:
- Backstitch three stitches
- Tie a knot by passing the needle through the thread of the previous stitch
Burn the ends if you are using polyester thread.
You have finished your running stitch! ✨
A tutorial to practice!
Discover the tutorial for sewing a transparent leather and PVC toiletry bag. This bag is sewn using the running stitch, which is ideal for practice.
