What are the advantages of a stitching with a backstitch?
One of the main advantages of this seam compared to saddle stitch is that it is almost foolproof and does not require specific tools.
This technique is ideal in the following cases:
- Zipper stitching
- Hard-to-reach areas
- Turned seam
- Leather and fabric assembly (practical for flexible materials)
The appearance of the seam differs depending on the side:
It is considered a decorative stitch.
- On one side, it has a classic, stitch-by-stitch appearance
- On the other, a twisted, "cord" appearance
You can choose the visible finish according to your project. Here, we made the "cord" appearance on the back and the "stitch-by-stitch" appearance on the front.
Attention: if the "cord" effect stitch is made on the grain side (visible side of your creation), the seam becomes more vulnerable to external aggressions (especially rubbing).
The different variations
The backstitch is done with a thread and a needle. The stitching holes can be punched with a Ø 1 mm round punch (for a straight finish) or marked with pricking irons and pierced with a diamond awl (for a more angled appearance, similar to saddle stitch).
👉 Watch the technique in video!
1. Prepare the thread
Cut an arm's length of linen thread or braided and waxed polyester thread. If you are using linen thread: wax it with beeswax (pass it 3 times, then wipe it).
GUIDE: WHICH THREAD AND NEEDLE TO CHOOSE?
Tie a knot at one end:
- Form a knot by bending the thread to create a loop
- Pass twice through the loop
- Tighten to secure the knot
- Cut off the excess, then lightly burn (only for polyester thread)
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
At the other end, thread a needle:
- Prick the thread to the length of a needle, then prick it twice
- Flatten the end of the thread
- Pass it through the eye of the needle
- Pull to secure
 |
 |
2. Pierce the holes
Two options are possible:
Round holes version:
Punch the holes with a Ø 1 mm punch.
 |
 |
Angled version:
Mark the stitching points with a pricking iron.
 |
 |
3. Stitch with backstitch
Start stitching by passing the needle through the second hole from the back/wrong side of the leather or from the front/right side, depending on the desired look.
Then, pass the needle through the first hole on the right side of the leather.
Then, repeat the following movement:
➡️ advance two holes, then go back one hole
Use a diamond awl to obtain an angled stitch (version with pricking irons).
 |
 |
 |
 |
Continue in this manner until the end of the seam. Always keep the thread loop downwards and pass the needle through the top of the seam for a regular finish.
 |
 |
4. Finish the seam
At the end, two options:
- Make three stitches backward
- Tie a knot by passing the needle through the thread of the previous stitch
Burn the ends if you are using polyester thread.
You have finished your backstitch! ✨
A tutorial for you to practice!
Discover the tutorial for sewing a transparent leather and PVC toiletry bag. This bag is sewn with a backstitch, ideal for practice.
