For this tutorial we do not offer a free download of the pattern.
GET THE PATTERN
Two options for purchasing the pattern:
- in digital format (PDF to print at actual size and assemble)
- in paper version (poster B1 which you will receive at home).
Available for purchase on our website!
THE NECESSARY EQUIPMENT
To complete this tutorial, you will need:
- 1 supple leather hide of 0.55 m² (surface given as an indication) - approximately 1 mm thick OR for the hand-stitched version: firmer leather from the Venus range (non-tracked leather).
- 8 roller eyelets and installation tools - Ø11 mm
- 4 rectangular loops - dimensions 25 x 8 mm
- 1 belt buckle - 25 mm wide
- 1 magnetic TOP clasp Ø 14 mm - ROUND
- 4 flat brass screw-on bag feet - Ø 11 mm
- 1 set of 10 T3 double cap rivets
- 1 TEXON reinforcement plate - 20 x 30 cm - 0.8 mm thick
- 1 piece of Alcantara microfiber lining fabric - 0.50 x 1.40 m
- The full-size pattern
And the following equipment:
- 1 cutter or scissors
- 1 cookie cutter Ø11 mm
- Double-sided adhesive tape
- Tear-resistant tape
- Sewing clips
- Leather contact adhesive
For machine sewing:
- 1 spool of polyester thread no. 30 (diameter 0.41 mm)
- Leather needle size 100
- Teflon foot
For hand sewing:
- 1 spool of 100m of braided and waxed polyester thread - Diameter 0.80 mm
- 1 round punch cutter - Ø 1.20 mm
- 2 saddler's needles - round tip - Size 1/0 - Ø 1.1 mm
CHOICE OF LEATHER
For the standard version : we recommend a soft nappa lambskin leather for a typical home sewing machine. For a more powerful or industrial machine, you can select firmer leathers such as one of our sheepskin leathers (lambskin - part of our ongoing range).
For the two-tone version : we chose a leather from the Satinlys range (split in 0.8 mm thickness) with a suede leather topcoat (1.4 mm thick) to vary the textures.
For the hand-sewn version : we chose a semi-soft semi-firm cowhide leather with a thickness of 1.5 mm (Venus range not followed).
Some examples:
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*Note: For the crocodile leather version, an industrial machine is required.
For the two-tone and hand-sewn version, go to the bottom of the page for additional information (tutorial).
CLASSIC VERSION
FULL VIDEO TUTORIAL
1. DRAW THE PATTERN
Using a silver pencil, trace the pattern pieces onto the grain side of the leather. Mark the centers with a silver pencil or by making a small 1 mm notch in the leather (see the lines on the pattern).
Also mark the position of the eyelets on the P1 pieces.
Pay attention to the positioning of the pieces on the leather skin, keep some scraps to make the lace (see step 18).
Also trace pieces P2 and P3 in the lining and P4 in the texon (mark the midpoints).
2. Cut out the different pieces
Cut out the various pieces of leather and lining with a cutter or scissors. Also cut out piece P4 from the Texon.
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3. Prepare the bag strap
Cut two rectangles measuring 7 x 65 cm (or piece P7 on the pattern at full size). Then, glue the two strips together, wrong sides facing (flesh to flesh), using contact adhesive for leather.
Option: add tear-resistant material to the ends to reinforce the strap.
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Flatten the glued area with a steel roller.
From this large doubled strip, cut 2 strips 2.5 cm wide and 65 cm long.
4. Work the slices
Before assembly, work the edges of the following pieces:
- all sides of the 2 P5 pieces.
- the 2 widths of the 2 pieces P1 (stain on the top 5 cm only, the rest of the widths will be hidden by the pieces P5).
- only 3 of the 4 sides of the 2 pieces P6: do not work the upper length.
The remaining slices will be processed at the end of the assembly.
The edges are finished with an edge finish/paint. Two to three coats of finish are required. For more information, please consult the guide below.
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5. PREPARE THE DIFFERENT PARTS
Place tear-resistant material on the top of the 2 P5 pieces for approximately 7 cm.
Apply double-sided tape along the entire length of the P5 pieces. Then, insert the rectangular loops and fold them over by 2.5 cm. Do not remove the double-sided tape along the entire length.
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Apply double-sided tape to:
- Apply the two widths of one of the P1 pieces to the reverse side of the leather. Do not apply them to the second P1 piece.
- the length of the top of the 2 pieces P1 on the reverse side of the leather.
- the length of the bottom of the 2 pieces P1 on the right side of the leather (see step 10).
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6. SEW THE BODY OF THE BAG
Attach piece P1 with double-sided tape to one of the widths of the second piece P1 that does not have double-sided tape. Glue wrong side to right side, for 1 cm.
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Then, sew the two pieces P1 together along this width.
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Attach one of the pieces P5 to the seam line using double-sided tape , 1.5 cm from the bottom of piece P1 . Flatten the glued area with a steel roller.
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Sew in two stages, starting from the bottom, so that the rectangular loop does not interfere with the sewing.
Using double-sided tape, stick the second width of P1 onto the other piece P1. Stick wrong side to right side, for 1 cm.
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Sew this width. Be careful not to sew the part underneath.
Glue and sew the second piece P5 onto the side of P1 which has just been sewn.
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7. INSTALL THE RIVETS
Make two Ø 3 mm holes below the rectangular loops of the P5 parts.
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Then, install T3 rivets using the tool of your choice.
ACCESSORY INSTALLATION GUIDE >
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8. PREPARE THE PEDDING P6
Place a magnetic top on the P6 pieces. The position of the clasp will depend on the position of your facing in the bag (see step 13) .
Apply double-sided tape to the widths of one of the P6 pieces (on the reverse side of the leather).
Glue one of the widths of piece P6, which has double-sided tape, to the width of the second piece P6, which does not have double-sided tape. Glue wrong side to right side, for a 1 cm overlap.
Then, sew the two P6 pieces together along the width that has just been glued.
Attach the second width of P6 with double-sided tape and sew to close the facing.
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9. PREPARE THE BAG BOX
Glue the P4 piece in texon to the center of the P3 leather piece, on the reverse side.
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Drill the 4 Ø 3 mm holes in the bag feet.
Screw on the bag feet.
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10. Sew the bottom onto the bag
Glue piece P3 (bottom of bag) to the bottom of P1, edge to edge, right sides together. Use the middles of the pieces as a guide to glue them in the correct position.
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Secure everything with sewing clips.
Then, sew all around the bottom of the bag using the texon to make a nice rounded edge (sew as close as possible to the texon).
Glue the leather edges of the bag bottom to the texon part to avoid extra thickness once the bag is turned inside out.
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Turn the bag inside out.
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11. MAKE THE LINING (here, Alcantara)
Sew the two pieces P2 together, right sides facing, along both widths.
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Using the center lines as a guide, position the lining bag bottom (P3) right sides together on P2. Secure with sewing clips.
Sew 1 cm all the way around.
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Notch the rounded edge.
12. SEW THE FACING TO THE LINING
On the underside of the leather and on the bottom of P6, apply double-sided tape 1 cm from the edge.
Glue the right side of the lining P2 to the wrong side of the facing P6, 1 cm from the edge. Be careful to match the seams correctly.
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Sew the facing to the lining 5 mm from the edge.
13. Sew the lining into the bag
Insert the lining inside the bag. Glue the facing to the top of the bag with double-sided tape (wrong sides together).
Stagger the centers to avoid excess thickness. Take care to position the facing correctly in relation to the position of the magnetic top so that it is centered (see step 8).
Sew all around the top of the bag 5 mm from the edge.
14. SET THE EYELETS
Make Ø 11 mm holes for the eyelets at the locations indicated on the pattern (see part P1).
Attach the roller eyelets using the attachment kit.
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15. WORKING THE SLICES
Work the top layers of the bag.
16. PREPARE THE SHOULDER STRAP
Take the strips cut in step 3. On one of the strips, work one of the ends into an ogive shape.
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On the same strip, make 5 holes of Ø 3 mm spaced 2.5 cm apart (center to center). Make the first hole 8 cm from the end in an ogive shape.
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On the other strap, make an oblong hole (hook hole) 6 cm from one end. To make a hook hole, make two 3 mm diameter holes about 2 cm apart and connect them with a cutter.
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Sew all around the straps.
Work the slices of the strips.
To make a loop: cut a strip 1 cm wide. The length is equal to 4x the thickness + 2x the width of the strip.
Example for a laminated strip 2 mm thick: (4 x 2) + (2 x 25) = 58 mm.
Join the two ends of the loop with a staple or a stitch.
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Insert the belt loop through the oblong hole. Then, pass the belt buckle through the loop and fold the strap back 6 cm to secure the belt loop.
Keep the strap folded and make a hole (Ø 3 mm) 2 cm from the center of the loop. Then, insert a T3 rivet.
Make a second hole approximately 3 cm (center to center) from the first hole. Secure the loop between the two holes and insert a second rivet.
Assemble the two straps by passing the pointed end through the belt loop.
17. ATTACH THE STRAP
Attach the strap to the rectangular loops with rivets.
18. TIE AND ATTACH THE LACE
To make the lace: cut 2 strips of leather 2 cm wide and 50 cm long. Join the 2 strips along their width and sew them together.
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Fold the lace over itself and sew 3 mm from the edge. Use double-sided tape to help.
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Work the edges of the lace.
Finally, pass the lace through the eyelets and tie a knot.
Option : if you do not wish to make your own laces, we advise you to take 1 meter of round leather lace with a diameter of 5 mm.
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TWO-TONE VERSION
The pattern for this version is included in the pattern for the classic version. The only difference from the classic version is that piece P1 is divided in two.
Video of the two-tone version
The leather needed
- 1 piece of split calfskin leather - suede - measuring 0.65 m² (surface area given as an indication) - 1.4 mm thick
- 1 piece of SATINLYS leather - 30 x 40 cm - 0.8 mm thick
- 1 piece of SATINLYS leather - 20 x 30 cm - 0.8 mm thick
Follow the same steps as the classic version except for the following steps:
Steps 1 and 2 - Cutting the pieces
Piece P1 is divided into two parts. You must cut the correct pieces from the correct leather (suede or smooth leather). Take care when tracing the pattern and cutting the pieces.
- Parts P1-1, P6 and P7 will be cut from the suede leather.
- Parts P1-2, P3 and P5 will be cut from smooth leather.
Step 4 - Working with the tench
Before assembly, work the edges of the following pieces:
- all sides of the 2 P5 pieces,
- the upper length of the 2 pieces P1-2.
Between step 5 and step 6 - Assemble part P1
Apply double-sided tape to:
- the length of the top of the 2 pieces P1-2 (on the reverse side of the leather).
- the length of the bottom of the 2 pieces P1-2 (on the right side of the leather).
- the 2 widths of one of the pieces P1-2 (on the reverse side of the leather). Do not apply to the second piece P1-2.
- the 2 widths of one of the P1-1 pieces (on the reverse side of the leather). Do not apply to the second P1-1 piece.
- the length of the top of the 2 pieces P1-1 (on the reverse side of the leather)
Glue the top length of the two pieces P1-2 to the bottom length of the two pieces P1-1, wrong sides together. Glue for 1 cm.
Then, sew at 3 mm.
Parts P1-1 and P1-2 now form part P1.
From step #6 to the end, follow the steps of the classic version.
HAND-SEALED VERSION
Don't have a sewing machine or isn't your home machine powerful enough to sew leather? Opt for the hand-sewing version (saddle stitch or simplified hole stitching), accessible to beginners!
Video of the hand-sewn version
HAND-STITCHED LEATHER
Discover, in the guide below, the essential points to know before embarking on hand-sewing leather.
SEE THE SIMPLIFIED SEWING GUIDE >
SEE THE SADDLE STITCH SEWING GUIDE >
The leather needed
- 1 piece of semi-soft, semi-firm or firm cowhide leather - 1.5 mm thick - 0.45 m² surface area (surface area given as an indication).
- 1 vegetable-tanned collar leather strap - Thickness 1.9 mm - width 25 mm - length 120 cm.
For this version, there is no lining, nor texon (see the list of accessories at the top of the blog post) .
GET THE PATTERN
The pattern for the hand-sewn bucket bag is available for sale on our website in digital format (PDF to print at actual size and assemble) .
1. Cut out the pieces
Trace and cut out the different leather pieces with a cutter. Also mark the position of the eyelets, the magnetic top and the bag feet.
Secure the parts with masking tape or a weight.
For the simplified sewing version: punch the 1.2 mm diameter holes with a round punch.
For the saddle stitch version: mark the stitch points with a tack iron.
2. Work the slices
Before assembly, work the edges of the following pieces:
- all sides of the 2 P5 pieces,
- of the length of the bottom of the 2 pieces P1,
- 3 sides of the 2 pieces P6 (do not work the upper length) .
3. Sew the body of the bag
Assemble the two P1 pieces together (edge to edge) on one of the widths with a lacing seam.
Lacing sewing technique:
- Cutting a thread (polyester or linen): take an arm's length = arm's length outstretched so as not to have to handle meters of thread.
- Thread a needle onto each end of the thread (see the sewing guide).
SEE THE SIMPLIFIED SEWING GUIDE >
SEE THE SADDLE STITCH SEWING GUIDE >
- Position the two P1 pieces next to each other.
- Insert the needles into the first holes of each piece P1 (face to face).
- Take a needle and insert it into the hole diagonally (like when tying shoelaces).
- Do the same with the second needle and so on.
- Once you reach the bottom of the piece, go back up by sewing in the other direction.
- Tie a knot to close the seam.
Watch the video at 01:05 min.
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Sew the second width of P1 in the same way.
4. Sew the bottom of the bag
Drill the 4 holes Ø 3 mm and screw in the bag feet.
Place a self-adhesive leather cover over the bag's base screws so they are not visible inside the bag. We sell these on our website: self-adhesive leather protectors - BLACK - Reference DA066.
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Sew the bottom of piece P1 onto the piece P3. Sew wrong side to right side using the simplified sewing technique or with a saddle stitch ( do not make lacing as in the previous step ).
SEE THE SIMPLIFIED SEWING GUIDE >
SEE THE SADDLE STITCH SEWING GUIDE >
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5. Sew the facing
Place a magnetic top on the P6 pieces in the location indicated on the pattern.
Assemble the P6 pieces by sewing the two widths together, in the same way as sewing the sides of the P1 pieces (a lacing) .
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Sew piece P6 onto the top of piece P1. Sew wrong sides together using a simplified stitch or saddle stitch.
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6. Work the slices
Treat the top edges of the bag with an edge dye.
7. Sew the pieces together (P5)
Insert the rectangular loops in the center of the P5 pieces. Then, sew the P5 pieces onto the top of P1 with a simplified seam or saddle stitch.
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8. Place the carnations
Make 11mm diameter holes for the eyelets at the locations indicated on the pattern.
Then, attach the eyelets (see instructions in the eyelet box) .
9. Make the strap
Take the leather collar strip and work the edges with tokonole or an edge finish.
To prepare and attach the strap to the bag, repeat steps #16 and #17 of the classic version.
10. Thread the lace through the eyelets
Take the Ø5 mm round shoelace and pass it through the eyelets.
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YOU'RE DONE!
Classic version
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Hand-sewn version
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