For this tutorial we do not offer a free download of the pattern.
GET THE BOSS
Two options for purchasing the pattern:
- in digital version (PDF to print in actual size and assemble)
- in paper version (B1 poster that you will receive at home).
On sale on our website!
THE NECESSARY MATERIALS
To complete this tutorial, you will need:
- 1 soft leather skin of 0.55 m² (surface area given as an indication) - approximately 1 mm thick OR for the hand-sewn version: firmer leather from the Venus range (untracked leather).
- 8 rolling eyelets and installation tools - Ø11 mm
- 4 rectangular loops - dimensions 25 x 8 mm
- 1 belt buckle - width 25 mm
- 1 magnetic TOP clasp Ø 14 mm - ROUND
- 4 flat brass bag feet to screw on - Ø 11 mm
- 1 set of 10 T3 double cap rivets
- 1 TEXON reinforcement plate - 20 x 30 cm - thickness 0.8 mm
- 1 coupon of alcantara microfiber for lining - 0.50 x 1.40 m
- The actual size pattern
And the following material:
- 1 cutter or scissors
- 1 cookie cutter Ø11 mm
- Double-sided tape
- Tear-proof tape
- Sewing clips
- Contact glue for leather
For machine sewing:
- 1 spool of polyester thread no. 30 (diameter 0.41 mm)
- Leather needle no. 100
- Teflon foot
For hand sewing:
- 1 spool of 100m of braided and waxed polyester thread - Diam 0.80 mm
- 1 ROUND punch - Ø 1.20 mm
- 2 saddler needles - round tip - Size 1/0 - Ø 1.1 mm
CHOICE OF LEATHER
For the classic version : we recommend soft lambskin nappa leather for a classic home machine. For a more powerful or industrial machine, you can choose firmer leathers such as one of our lambskin leathers (continued range).
For the two-tone version : we chose a leather from the Satinlys range (split in 0.8 mm thickness) with a suede crust (1.4 mm thick) to vary the textures.
For the hand-sewn version : we chose a semi-soft, semi-firm cowhide leather 1.5 mm thick (range not followed by Venus).
Some examples:
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*Please note that the crocodile leather version requires an industrial machine.
For the two-tone, hand-sewn version, go to the bottom of the page for additional information (tutorial).
CLASSIC VERSION
FULL TUTORIAL VIDEO
1. DRAW THE PATTERN
Using a silver pencil, trace the pattern pieces onto the grain side of the leather. Mark the centers with a silver pencil or by making a small 1 mm notch in the leather (see the lines on the pattern).
Also mark the position of the eyelets on the P1 parts.
Pay attention to the positioning of the pieces on the leather skin, keep some scraps to make the lace (see step 18).
Also trace pieces P2 and P3 in the lining and P4 in the texon (mark the centers).
2. Cut out the different pieces
Cut out the various pieces of leather and lining with a cutter or scissors. Also cut out piece P4 from the texon.
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3. Prepare the bag strap
Cut two rectangles measuring 7 x 65 cm (or piece P7 on the actual size pattern). Then, glue the two strips, wrong sides together (flesh to flesh), with leather contact glue.
Option: add tear-resistant tape to the ends to reinforce the strap.
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Flatten the collage with a steel roller.
From this large doubled strip, cut 2 strips 2.5 cm wide and 65 cm long.
4. Work the slices
Before assembly, work the slices of the following pieces:
- all sides of the 2 P5 rooms.
- the 2 widths of the 2 P1 pieces (tint on the top 5 cm only, the rest of the widths will be hidden by the P5 pieces).
- only 3 of the 4 sides of the 2 pieces P6: do not work the upper length.
The other slices will be worked at the end of the assembly.
The work on the slices is done with a finish/paint for slices. Two to three coats of finish are required. For more information, we invite you to consult the guide below.
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5. PREPARE THE DIFFERENT PARTS
Place tear-resistant tape on the top of the 2 P5 pieces, approximately 7 cm.
Apply double-sided tape along the entire length of the P5 pieces. Then, insert the rectangular loops and fold them back by 2.5 cm. Do not remove the double-sided tape along the entire length.
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Put double-sided tape on:
- the 2 widths of one of the P1 pieces on the reverse side of the leather. Do not put any on the second P1 piece.
- the length of the top of the 2 P1 pieces on the reverse side of the leather.
- the length of the bottom of the 2 pieces P1 on the right side of the leather (see step 10).
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6. SEW THE BODY OF THE BAG
Glue piece P1 with double-sided tape across one of the widths of the second piece P1 that does not have double-sided tape. Glue the wrong side to the right side, 1 cm apart.
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Then, sew the two P1 pieces along this width.
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Glue one of the P5 pieces along the seam line with double-sided tape 1.5 cm from the bottom of piece P1 . Flatten the glue with a steel roller.
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Sew twice, starting from the bottom so that the rectangular loop does not interfere with the sewing.
Using double-sided tape, glue the second width of P1 onto the other piece P1. Glue the wrong side to the right side, 1 cm apart.
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Sew this width. Be careful not to sew the part underneath.
Glue and sew the second piece P5 to the side of P1 that has just been sewn.
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7. PLACE THE RIVETS
Make two Ø 3 mm holes below the rectangular loops of the P5 parts.
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Then, install T3 rivets with the tool of your choice.
ACCESSORIES INSTALLATION GUIDE >
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8. PREPARE THE P6 FACING
Place a magnetic top on the P6 pieces. The position of the clasp will depend on the position of your facing in the bag (see step 13) .
Place double-sided tape on the widths of one of the P6 pieces (on the back of the leather).
Glue one of the P6 widths that has double-sided tape to the width of the second P6 piece that does not have double-sided tape. Glue the wrong side to the right side, 1 cm apart.
Then, sew the two P6 pieces together along the width that has just been glued.
Glue the second width of P6 with double-sided tape and sew to close the facing.
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9. PREPARE THE BOTTOM OF THE BAG
Glue the P4 piece in texon to the center of the P3 piece in leather, on the reverse side.
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Drill the 4 holes Ø 3 mm in the bag feet.
Screw on the bag feet.
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10. SEW THE BOTTOM ON THE BAG
Glue piece P3 (bag bottom) to the bottom of P1, right sides together. Use the middles of the pieces to glue in the right place.
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Hold everything together with sewing clips.
Then, come and sew all around the bottom of the bag, using the texon to make a nice curve (sew as close to the texon as possible).
Glue the leather edges of the bottom of the bag onto the texon part to avoid excess thickness once the bag is turned over.
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Turn the bag inside out.
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11. MAKE THE LINING (here alcantara)
Sew edge to edge and right sides together the two P2 pieces on both widths.
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Using the middles, place the bottom of the lining bag (P3) right sides together on P2. Hold in place with sewing clips.
Sew 1 cm all around.
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Notch the rounding.
12. SEW THE FACING TO THE LINING
On the reverse side of the leather and on the bottom of P6, place double-sided tape 1 cm from the edge.
Glue the right side of the P2 lining to the wrong side of the P6 facing, 1 cm from the edge. Be careful to match the seams.
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Sew the facing to the lining 5 mm from the edge.
13. SEW THE LINING INTO THE BAG
Insert the lining inside the bag. Glue the facing to the top of the bag with the double-sided tape (wrong side against wrong side).
Stagger the middles to avoid excess thickness. Take care to position the facing correctly in relation to the position of the magnetic top so that it is centered (see step 8).
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Sew all the way around the top of the bag, 5 mm from the edge.
14. INSTALL THE EYELETS
Make Ø 11 mm holes for the eyelets in the locations provided on the pattern (see part P1).
Install the rolling eyelets with the installation kit.
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15. WORKING THE SLICES
Work the slices from the top of the bag.
16. PREPARE THE SHOULDER STRAP
Take the strips cut in step 3. On one of the strips, work one of the ends into a ogive.
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On the same strap, make 5 holes of Ø 3 mm spaced 2.5 cm apart (center to center). Make the first hole 8 cm from the end in a bullet shape.
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On the other strip, make an oblong hole (cap) 6 cm from one end. To make a cap, make two Ø 3 mm holes about 2 cm apart and connect them with a cutter.
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Sew all around the straps.
Work the slices of the strips.
To make a loop: Cut a strip 1 cm wide. The length is equal to 4x the thickness + 2x the width of the strap.
Example for a 2 mm thick laminated strip: (4 x 2) + (2 x 25) = 58 mm.
Join the two ends of the loop with a staple or a stitch.
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Insert the loop through the oblong hole. Then, pass the belt buckle through the loop and fold the strap back 6 cm to secure the loop.
Keep the strap folded and make a hole (Ø 3 mm) 2 cm from the center of the loop. Then, place a T3 rivet.
Make a second hole about 3 cm (center to center) from the first hole. Block the loop between the two holes and place a second rivet.
Join the two straps together by passing the pointed end through the belt buckle.
17. ATTACH THE STRAP
Attach the strap to the rectangular loops with rivets.
18. TIE AND TIE THE SHOE
To make the lace: cut two strips of leather, each 2 cm wide and 50 cm long. Join the two strips together widthwise and sew them together.
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Fold the lace over itself and sew 3 mm from the edge. Use double-sided tape to help.
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Work the slices of the lace.
Finally, pass the lace through the eyelets and tie a knot.
Option : if you do not want to make your own lace, we recommend taking 1 meter of round leather lace measuring Ø 5 mm.
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TWO-TONE VERSION
The pattern for this version is included in the pattern for the classic version. The only difference with the classic version is that piece P1 is divided in two.
Video of the two-tone version
The necessary leather
- 1 calfskin split leather skin - suede - 0.65 m² (surface area given for information purposes only) - 1.4 mm thick
- 1 piece of SATINLYS leather - 30 x 40 cm - 0.8 mm thick
- 1 piece of SATINLYS leather - 20 x 30 cm - 0.8 mm thick
Follow the same steps as the classic version except for the following steps:
Steps 1 and 2 - Cutting the pieces
Piece P1 is divided into two parts. You must cut the correct pieces from the correct leather (split suede or smooth leather). Be careful when tracing the pattern and cutting the pieces.
- Pieces P1-1, P6 and P7 will be cut from the suede crust.
- Pieces P1-2, P3 and P5 will be cut from smooth leather.
Step 4 - Working the Tenches
Before assembly, work the slices of the following pieces:
- all sides of the 2 P5 rooms,
- the upper length of the 2 pieces P1-2.
Between step 5 and step 6 - Assemble part P1
Put double-sided tape on:
- the length of the top of the 2 pieces P1-2 (on the reverse side of the leather).
- the length of the bottom of the 2 pieces P1-2 (on the right side of the leather).
- the 2 widths of one of the pieces P1-2 (on the back of the leather). Do not put any on the second piece P1-2.
- the 2 widths of one of the pieces P1-1 (on the back of the leather). Do not put any on the second piece P1-1.
- the length of the top of the 2 pieces P1-1 (on the reverse side of the leather)
Glue the top length of the 2 pieces P1-2 right side to the bottom length of the 2 pieces P1-1. Glue over 1 cm.
Then, sew at 3 mm.
Parts P1-1 and P1-2 now form part P1.
From step 6 to the end, repeat the steps of the classic version.
HAND-SEWN VERSION
Don't have a sewing machine, or isn't your home sewing machine powerful enough to sew leather? Choose the hand-sewn version (saddle stitch or simplified hole stitch), which is accessible to beginners!
Video of the hand-sewn version
HAND STITCHING LEATHER
Discover, in the guide below, the essential points to know before starting to sew leather by hand.
SEE THE SIMPLIFIED SEWING GUIDE >
SEE THE SADDLESTITCH SEWING GUIDE >
The necessary leather
- 1 skin of semi-soft, semi-firm or firm cowhide leather - thickness 1.5 mm - surface area 0.45 m² (surface area given for information purposes only).
- 1 strip of vegetable tanned collar leather - Thickness 1.9 mm - width 25 mm - length 120 cm.
For this version, there is no lining or texon (see the list of accessories at the top of the blog article) .
GET THE BOSS
The hand-sewn bucket bag pattern is available for sale on our website in digital format (PDF to print in actual size and assemble) .
1. Cut out the pieces
Trace and cut out the various pieces of leather with a cutter. Also mark the position of the eyelets, the magnetic top, and the bag feet.
Hold the pieces together with masking tape or a weight.
For the simplified sewing version: pierce the 1.2 mm diameter holes with a round punch.
For the saddle stitch version: mark the stitching points with a striking claw.
2. Work the slices
Before assembly, work the slices of the following pieces:
- all sides of the 2 P5 rooms,
- the length of the bottom of the 2 pieces P1,
- 3 sides of the 2 P6 pieces (do not work the upper length) .
3. Sew the body of the bag
Join the two P1 pieces together (edge to edge) on one of the widths with a lacing seam.
Lacing sewing technique:
- Cutting a thread (polyester or linen): take an armful = length with arms outstretched so as not to have to handle meters of thread.
- Thread a needle through each end of the thread (see sewing guide).
SEE THE SIMPLIFIED SEWING GUIDE >
SEE THE SADDLESTITCH SEWING GUIDE >
- Place the two P1 pieces next to each other.
- Insert the needles into the first holes of each P1 piece (facing each other).
- Take a needle and insert it diagonally into the hole (like lacing a shoe).
- Do the same with the second needle and so on.
- Once you reach the bottom of the piece, go back up and sew in the other direction.
- Tie a knot to close the seam.
Watch the video at 01:05 min.
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Sew the second width of P1 in the same way.
4. Sew the bottom of the bag
Drill the 4 holes Ø 3 mm and screw the bag feet.
Place a self-adhesive leather pad on the screws of the bag foot so that they are not visible inside the bag. We sell them on our website: self-adhesive leather protective circles - BLACK - Reference DA066.
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Sew the bottom of piece P1 onto the piece P3. Sew right sides together using the simplified sewing technique or a saddle stitch ( do not lace up as in the previous step ).
SEE THE SIMPLIFIED SEWING GUIDE >
SEE THE SADDLESTITCH SEWING GUIDE >
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5. Sew the facing
Place a magnetic top on the P6 pieces at the location indicated on the pattern.
Assemble the P6 pieces by sewing the two widths together, in the same way as sewing the sides of the P1 pieces (one lacing) .
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Sew piece P6 to the top of piece P1. Sew wrong sides together using a simplified seam or saddle stitch.
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6. Work the slices
Work the top slices of the bag with a slice dye.
7. Sew the pieces P5
Insert the rectangular loops into the center of the P5 pieces. Then, sew the P5 pieces to the top of P1 with a simplified seam or saddle stitch.
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8. Place the eyelets
Make 11 mm diameter holes for the eyelets in the locations provided on the pattern.
Then, place the eyelets (see instructions in the eyelet box) .
9. Make the strap
Take the leather neck strap and work the edges with tokonole or an edge finish.
To prepare and attach the strap to the bag, repeat steps 16 and 17 of the classic version.
10. Pass the lace through the eyelets
Take the Ø5 mm round lace and pass it through the eyelets.
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YOU'RE FINISHED!
Classic version
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Hand-sewn version
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