Video - Learn corner stitching - making a leather Choupette©

Dimensions of La Choupette (closed)

Length: 10cm
Width: 4cm
Height: 8 cm

PREREQUISITES

To complete this tutorial and learn corner sewing, you must have good mastery of saddle stitch sewing.

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THE NECESSARY TOOLS

• Impact claws Center distance 3.00 mm
• Economical double function tree frog
• Round awl and diamond awl
• Folding saddle pliers for sewing leather
• Round punch cookie cutter – 3 mm
• Fine abrasive sponge – 400
• Water-based glue for leather
• Leather finishing eraser

VIDEO TUTORIAL
HOW TO ASSEMBLE THE CHOUPETTE©?

DOWNLOAD THE PATTERN AND CUT THE PIECES

• Download the pattern at the top of this page (in the “PATTERN” tab) and print it in full size.
• Cut out the pattern pieces with a cutter or slicer. Don't forget to do the scoring with a round awl.

Selected leather: vegetable tanned leather - 20x30 cm - Thickness approximately 1.8 mm

• Before cutting out the sides and in order to have full grain leather on both sides of the piece: glue 2 pieces of leather together.
• Be careful not to cut the rounded edges all at once but in quarters, otherwise you risk not having a nice cut (see the video below).

A Choupette kit is also on sale with pre-cut leather pieces.
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1. SAND THE SLICES

Sand the slices at 45° and always in the same direction with a 400-grit abrasive sponge.

2. MAKE A DECORATIVE NET

Make a decorative net 2 mm from the edge.
Cold stamping (only for vegetable-tanned leather) with a frog, former or leatherworker's net iron.
To go further into details: also make a decorative net on the crust side.

3. MARK THE SEWING STITCHES

Mark the sewing points parallel to the net approximately 3 mm from the edge .

We have chosen to mark the points next to the drawn line in order to keep a decorative net (only possible on vegetable tanned leather). For beginners, you can mark the points directly on the line.

• Center distance 3.0 mm.
• Do not go through the thickness of the leather.
• Always go back 3 points.
• Stop scratching before pointing.

To be sure to have symmetry and not create an offset:
Exceptionally for the other side, scratch with the net on the left (do not turn the piece).

MARK THE SEWING POINTS ON THE SIDES

• Start by making the marks. The score should be flush with the edge of the main piece. The 2nd point must be well opposite the 1st point of the main piece.
• For lengths: use a 10-tooth claw (3 mm center distance).
• For rounding: mark the points with a 2-tooth claw or a marking wheel. Never use a mallet with a 2-pronged claw to avoid piercing the leather.

DOUBLE-SCRATCHING ON THE UPPER SIDE
Mark the first two points (below the score) with a round awl.
Then double-scratch the top side. Double scoring allows you to have a prettier stitch on both sides of the piece.

4. WORK THE SLICES WITH A FINISHING ERASER

• Sand the edges again.
• Then apply a finishing gum for vegetable tanned leather (Tokonole, gum arabic or tragacanth).

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5. WAX AND THREAD THE LINEN THREAD

• Take a length of linen thread (Ø 0.55 mm) equivalent to 4 or 5 times that of the seam*.

* 4 different seams are necessary for the Choupette©.

• Wax the thread to bond the fibers and protect it when sewing. Pass the thread 3 times through the wax.
• Thread the linen thread onto the first needle size 004 (see video)
• Do the same thing to thread the other end of the thread onto the second needle.

6. PRE-DRILL THE MAIN PIECE BEFORE SEWING

With a diamond awl and a block of cork: pre-drill the leather of the main piece before sewing (double dogging).
Pay attention to the inclination of the diamond awl : it must be slightly slanted.

7. PRE-DRILL THE SIDES BEFORE SEWING

• Start at the first point to pierce the leather, reaching for the middle of the edge . The diamond awl must remain perpendicular while maintaining the inclination of the point .
• Always come out in the same place in the middle about 2-3 mm from the edge (to be opposite the sewing points of the main piece).

Stop piercing the leather when pointing. The top seam is a decorative seam, not a corner seam. Double-dogging was done in step 3.
Lightly sand the side slices to remove small fibers (only the slices where there will be assembly).

The finishing gum (Tokonole) applied in step 4 helps protect the edge.

8. SEW THE TOP OF THE SIDES

• Start sewing one point below the score.
• Do not pierce the leather with a diamond but round awl because there is a double scratch on the leather .
• Make sure the round awl is in the center of the point.
• Same technique as saddle stitch sewing without the comma (do not pass the thread over the needle).

Do not make the 3 stopping points but take the thread out in the edge (aesthetic reason) and tie a knot.

9. GLUE THE PARTS TO BE ASSEMBLED

• Glue the parts to be assembled with aqueous-based glue (water).
• Mark the first scratch with a round awl so you know where to start the glue line. Then make a bead of glue over 4-5 mm.
• Wait a few minutes before gluing the pieces together.

Glue the top of the main piece flush with the point. Make sure the sides are well aligned.
To strengthen the bond, tap gently with a riveting hammer.

10. START CORNER SEWING

For better support of the saddle clamp: give shape to your Choupette© by filling it with a cloth or a block of cork.

• Start sewing at the 4th stitch and make 3 double stitches.
• Do not overtighten the stitches so as not to crush the leather.
• As before, sew with a round awl and do not make a comma because it is double stitched.

11. SEW ROUNDS AND MAKE LACKING STITCHES

When the points begin to be offset in the roundings, it is necessary to create missing points to fill in the offsets .

The offset is done because there are more stitches on the exterior part of the Choupette© than on the side because the "path is longer".

To make a missing point and therefore fill a gap, you must move forward one point on one side and on the other side return to the previous point (see image or video) - always with a round awl. On the side of the Choupette, the stitch is made in the material (V-shaped seam - hidden stitch).

As soon as there is a discrepancy it will be necessary to make a point of shortage. For information, we made 4 missing points on each side of La Choupette©. If a missing point has been created on one side of a part it will be necessary to do it on the other side (symmetry).
When the rounded seam is finished, resume “normal” sewing (end of missing stitches).

• Make the 3 stopping points and sew the second side of the Choupette©.
• Cut the thread flush and add a dot of glue.
• With a smoother “smooth” the seam.

12. CLOSE THE CHOUPETTE© WITH A STRAP AND A COLLAR BUTTON

• Using a strap cutter, cut a leather strap: length 27 cm - width 13 mm - thickness 1.8 mm.
• Then make a decorative net and work the slices with a finishing gum (Tokonole, gum tragacanth and gum arabic).

• Make 2 double crochet stitches (pass the thread at least 3 times) to attach the strap to the Choupette©
• Install the T3 collar button using a 3 mm round punch and a collar button punch (see video).

THANK YOU TO PAUL FOR THIS SHARING AND HIS KNOW-HOW

WHERE TO TRAIN IN CORNER SEWING?

Come learn corner sewing and make a Choupette© during a training day in our premises located in Campbon between Nantes and Saint-Nazaire (44 - Loire Altantique).
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