The necessary equipment
To make this handbag tutorial, you will need:
- 1 piece of CLASSIC natural vegetable tanned collar leather - Thickness 1.6mm - 30 x 40 cm
- 1 skin of VELVET pigskin split leather - DUCK BLUE - 0.25 m² minimum
- 1 box of 8m of MeiSi super fine waxed linen thread M60 - 0.65 mm - BLUE - MS021
- 120 cm bag chain per meter - Venice
- 2 collar buttons with ring - For 8mm strap - NICKEL PLATED
- 1 leather finishing eraser - Tokonole - 120g
- 1 pot of 250 ml of neoprene glue, LIQUID with brush integrated into the cap
- Olive oil or neatsfoot oil
And the following equipment:
- 1 punch cookie cutter - Ø 1.5 mm
- 1 mallet
- 1 cutter
- 2 round tip needles size 1/0
- 1 abrasive sponge
1. DYE THE LEATHER
Using a wide brush, tint the natural vegetable tanned leather with olive oil or neatsfoot oil . Apply at least 2 coats to the grain of the leather, trying to apply the same amount of oil everywhere and always going in the same direction. Leave the oil to soak into the leather for at least a day and if possible in front of a window. To block the color (prevent the leather from darkening further): apply tokonole to the grain of the leather and polish with a soft cloth.
2. GLUE THE LINING
Before cutting the leather, glue the pigskin to the crust side of the vegetable tanned leather. Apply contact glue to the back of the two pieces of leather then laminate the vegetable tanned leather and the velvet pork crust skin. Be sure to flatten and smooth the bond with a jointer's hammer or steel roller.
3. PRINT THE PATTERN
Download the pattern and print it in full size. Cut out the paper pattern, leaving approximately 1 cm of margin around the pieces. Then tape, using masking tape (so as not to damage the leather), the pattern to the piece of leather that has already been lined.
4. CUT THE PATTERN
Pierce the sewing holes indicated on the pattern using a round punch cutter 1.5 mm in diameter.
If saddle stitch sewing: mark the sewing stitches after cutting the pieces.
Following the lines, cut out the different pieces with a cutter.
5. WORK THE SLICES
Work the slices with tragacanth gum or tokonole. Apply and allow the product to penetrate the edge, then rub briskly with a cloth. The slice will brown and shine.
6. PUT ON THE COLLAR BUTTONS
Drill the leather and screw the collar buttons with ring on the sides. You will have the possibility to hang a bag chain on it (see step 11).
7. NOURISH THE LEATHER
Before sewing, feed the leather with grease.
8. SEW THE POUCH
Glue the tab and the sides to the main piece then start sewing.
Sewing the pocket : Cut a thread 5 times larger than the length to be sewn. Then, wax the linen thread with beeswax.
Thread a needle into each end of the thread.
To start sewing : pass the thread through the first hole and even out the threads. Sew by passing each needle through each hole one by one. Finish the seam with 3 double stitches (bartack stitches) and cut the thread flush.
To learn more about sewing leather “made easy,” check out our guide.
SEE THE SIMPLIFIED SEWING GUIDE >
For side sewing and to obtain perfect angles, it is necessary to make a missing stitch (see the pink stitches on the pattern, main piece P4 has an additional stitch).
9. WORKING THE SLICES
Work, a second time, the edges which have been sewn by sanding with an abrasive sponge. Reapply tokonole then rub briskly with a cloth.
10. ATTACH THE CHAIN
Take a bag chain of approximately 100/120 cm then insert a carabiner at both ends of the chain using pliers. Finally, attach the bag chain to the collar button with ring.