HOW TO SEW LEATHER BY MACHINE?
We have listed the essential points to know before you start machine sewing leather (with a family machine).
SEE THE GUIDE >
THE NECESSARY EQUIPMENT
The dimensions of the finished pouch are 16 x 11 x 2 cm.
- the pattern (to download in the tab above)
- a 20x27 cm fine leather coupon (or foam-lined leather)
- a 20x27 cm thick fleece coupon
- tissue paper (or parchment paper) 20x27 cm
- scraps of thick interfacing
- a piece of thick denim or gabardine fabric for the outside of the 40x20 cm bag (you can also choose a piece of leather of at least 1.2 mm and not too soft)
- a piece of thinner fabric for the 75x25 cm lining (you can also choose a piece of suede)
- a sewing machine + a teflon foot and a special leather needle
- matching thread (polyester)
- scissors
- pen
- a ruler
- pressure or magnetic top
1. PRINT THE PATTERN
- Print the pattern at 100% scale (actual size).
- Check the scale using the 3x3 cm square on the first page of the file before you start cutting the pieces.
- Cut out all the elements of the pattern and transfer them to the fabrics and/or leather.
*Do not put the flap pocket on the leather for the moment, it must be quilted before (see step 3 and 4). 
2. PLACE THE MAGNETIC TOP
- Position a scrap of interfacing at the location of the magnetic top on the back of the flap lining and on one of the outer bodies of the bag to consolidate the fabric at this location.
- Then attach the magnetic top to the right side of the fabrics.
- Place the metal support on the location of the magnetic top then mark the two marks with a silver pencil.
- Using a cutter, incise the marks from step 1.
- Insert the claws of the magnetic top into the incisions and starting from the right side of the fabric.
- Place the metal support upside down and bend the claws outwards using a ruler.
- Repeat the operation for the second part of the magnetic top. 
3. PREPARE THE PATTERN FOR QUILTING
For this model, Jessica from the MARS workshop used a wrinkled leather already glued with foam but she still preferred to add a padding to obtain a very " fluffy " effect.
- Prepare the leather padding by tracing the “sun” line on the rectangle of tissue paper.
- Assemble the fleece on the back of the leather with double-sided tape.
- Then position the tissue paper on the right side of the leather using pliers so as not to damage it.
4. LEATHER PADDING
- Install the Teflon presser foot and the special leather needle on the machine. Before you start stitching, Jessica advises you to do a test on a piece of leather to adjust the thread tension and the stitch length.
For information, for this project Jessica set the thread tension to 5.5 and lengthened the stitch length to 3.5.
- Start stitching gently, following the lines on the tissue paper (or parchment paper).
5. CUT THE LEATHER FLAP
- Tear the tissue paper by gently pulling once all the lines are stitched.
- Then trace and cut the pattern of the flap on the quilted leather coupon to obtain the final shape.
6. ASSEMBLE THE BODY OF THE BAG
- Assemble and stitch the body of the bag right sides together 1 cm apart.
- Notch the corners to obtain nice rounding (photo n°2).
- Proceed in the same way for the lining while leaving a sufficiently wide space (9 cm on one of the sides - photo n°3) to be able to turn the work over at the end (step 9).
7. SEWING THE FLAP
- Assemble and sew the leather flap + the lining flap right sides together at 1 cm (do not sew the upper length to be able to turn the piece over)
- Notch the corners to obtain nice roundness once turned over.
- Reduce the seam allowances to 2 or 3 mm*.
- Then turn over and topstitch (do not topstitch on the upper length - photo n°1 and 2)
*Jessica recommends cutting the seam allowances a little to have less thickness during the topstitching step. Family sewing machines are sometimes finicky when the piece to be sewn is too thick. 
8. FLAP ASSEMBLY
- Turn the outer body of the bag right side out.
- With pliers, assemble the outer body on the finished flap (quilted leather) right sides together (pay attention to the position of the magnetic top).
- Stitch over the entire length greater than 0.5 mm.
- Reduce the seam allowances to have less thickness during the topstitching step.
9. FINAL ASSEMBLY
- Slip the outer bag into the lining right sides together and stitch the top edge 1 cm apart.
- Turn the work over through the opening left in step 6 in the lining. Close the liner by hand or machine.
- Position the lining in the bag and topstitch the top edge of the bag at 0.5 mm (photo 4).
ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS ENJOY YOUR CREATION!
