THE NECESSARY EQUIPMENT
To complete this tutorial, you will need:
- 1 piece of leather 15 x 20 cm between 1.2 and 1.4 mm thick
- 1 piece of leather 15 x 20 cm in 0.5 mm thickness
- 1 zipper of 25 cm
- 1 key ring
- 1 edge finish
And the following material:
- 1 cutter or scissors
- 1 sewing machine
LEATHER SEWING BY MACHINE
Discover, in the guide below, the essential points to know before embarking on machine sewing of leather (with a family machine).
1. PRINT THE PATTERN
Download the pattern and print it in real size. Cut out the paper pattern and transfer it to the leather with a silver pencil according to the following distribution:
- The P1 and P2 pieces (hearts) on the 1.2/1.4 mm thick piece.
- Parts P3, P4 and P5 (bellows and bands) on the 0.5 mm thick piece.
Cut out the leather pieces with a cutter or a pair of scissors.
Erase the silver pencil with a crepe eraser.
2. WORK THE SLICES
Work the slices of the two hearts (parts P1 and P2) with edge finish.
3. SEWING THE TAPE
Start by gluing, with double-sided tape, one side of part P4 to one end of the zipper.
Then, sew 1 mm from the edge of the leather strip.
Cut and burn the ends of the zipper to avoid excess thickness.
Sew the second side of piece P4 to the other end of the zipper 1 mm from the edge.
4. SEW THE TONGUE
Fold the P5 strip (0.8 x 40 mm piece of leather) in half and sew it to the zipper 6 cm from the slider. The fold of the band must be towards the stitch of the closure.
5. SEW THE BELLOWS
Place double-sided on each side of the gusset (part P3), on the grain of the leather.
Then, stick one side of the gusset (edge to edge) on the back of the zipper: the middle of the gusset must be positioned at the level of the metal stop of the zipper. Stitch 3 mm from the edge to hold the first side of the gusset in place.
To better understand, here is a final view.
6. SEW THE 1ST HEART
Sew piece P1 onto the zipper. Be careful, the tip of the heart must be opposite the metal zipper stopper.
To start sewing, sew about 5 stitches before the point of the heart. Sew part P1 2 mm from the edge of the leather and 3 mm from the edge of the zipper.
! ATTENTION ! You have to go slowly, this step is a bit technical.
- Pay attention that the needle of the sewing machine is always planted when you move the work.
- Also pay attention to the curves: at the top of the heart, the leather must come against the stitching of the zipper during the stitching to be sure that the zipper will be well stitched at the level of the hollows.
- Use double-sided and sewing clamps to hold the pieces if necessary (or glue the pieces).
- The zipper must be open at the time of sewing.
7. SEW THE SECOND PART OF THE BELLOWS
Glue the second side of the gusset to the zipper. Then, sew 3 mm from the edge.
8. SEW THE SECOND HEART
Place the tip of the heart in front of the metal zipper stopper.
Then, sew all around part P2 on the zipper. Use double-sided or clamps to hold the pieces.
Follow the same sewing instructions as in step 6.
Then, cut and burn the sewing threads.
9. YOU'RE DONE!
All that remains is to insert the round ring into the tab and you're done!
