THE NECESSARY EQUIPMENT
- 1 strip of NAVY BLUE TANAO VVN leather - Thickness 1.5 mm - minimum 1.25 m²
Here we used a tinted vegetable tanned leather skin from the TANAO range at more than 100€. For the smallest budgets, we advise you to select a firm or semi-flexible semi-firm leather skin with a minimum thickness of 1.4 mm and a maximum thickness of 1.9 mm (e.g. coated split, patent split, cowhide...).
- 1 VELVET - NATURAL suede pigskin split skin. Recommended minimum area: 0.55 m²
- 1 spool of 500 m of braided and waxed polyester thread - diam 0.80 mm
- 1 jar of Tokonole - Leather Finishing Gum - 120g OR 1 Slice Finishing Jar (if you choose mineral tanned leather).
- 2 meters of STRAND for bag handle - Diameter 6 mm
- 2 MINI GUN BARREL brass snaps - diameter 10.5 mm OR magnetic tops 12.5 mm in diameter (does not require an installation tool).
- 1 pot of 250 ml of WATER-BASED CONTACT GLUE
- 2 round-tipped needles
- 1 round cookie cutter 1.5 mm in diameter
- 1 mallet
- 1 cutter and rotary cutter
OPTIONAL : texon and bag feet for the bottom of the bag and 4 magnetic tops if you want to be able to close the shopping bag.
BEGINNER: SEWING LEATHER BY HAND SIMPLIFIED
For beginners, we offer you a simplified hand sewing called "with holes". You will not need any special knowledge to successfully make the bag. Discover in the guide below, the essential points to know before embarking on simplified hand sewing.
SEE THE GUIDE >
EXPERT: SADDLE STITCH LEATHER SEWING
The most seasoned in leather work can sew the tote bag with a saddle stitch seam. The saddle stitch is the most popular stitch for leather lovers because it is the strongest stitch.
SEE THE GUIDE >
VIDEO
1. PRINT THE PATTERN
- Print the pattern in real size (to download in the tab at the top of the page).
- Assemble and cut out the pattern, leaving a 5mm margin around the lines.
- Then place and hold the pieces on the leather skin using masking tape.
2. DRILL THE SEWING HOLES
Make the different sewing holes by hitting a round cookie cutter (Ø 1 and maximum Ø 1.5 mm) with a mallet.
The distance between the sewing holes (center to center) is 6.5 mm. You can use Deco Leather's 5 removable punch punches to go faster.
Trim the last stitches with a simple round cookie cutter.
SEE ARTICLE >
Do not drill or cut parts P8 and P7 (large model) / P6 and P7 (small model) which will be doubled in step 6.
*For a saddle stitch seam, you must mark the stitches with a stamping pin after cutting and/or assembling the pattern pieces (step 3). Do not hesitate to consult our complete guide.
3. CUT THE LEATHER PIECES
Cut the leather pieces with a cutter following the lines of the pattern. Reminder : do not drill or cut parts P8 and P7 (large model) / P6 and P7 (small model) which will be doubled in step 6.
4. MAKE THE BAG HANDLES
Apply leather contact glue to the back of the 2 P3 pieces.
Then, cut out 2 pieces of approximately 54.5 cm of strand and glue them in the center on the back of each P3 piece.
Then, fold the handle on itself (match the holes).
Sew the bag handles:
Cut a thread 4 times larger than the length to be sewn. Thread a needle at each end of the thread and start sewing the handles.
- Pass the thread through the 1st hole and even out the threads.
- Sew by passing each needle one by one through each hole.
- Finish the seam with 3 double stitches (stop stitches) and cut the thread flush. To create symmetry, you can start your seam with 3 double stitches.
- Hit the seams with a jointer hammer or riveter.
Work the edges of the handles with Tokonole (vegetable tanned leather only) or an edge finish.
TOKONOLE GUIDE >
5. WORK THE DECORATIVE STRAPS
Start by working the edges of the decorative strips with Tokonole or an edge finish. With a rasp file for glue, scrape the leather where the decorative strips will be glued (to improve the adhesion of the glue) .
Apply contact glue to the back of the strips and to the flower of the 2 main pieces of the bag. Then glue the 4 decorative straps. Press/flatten the bonding with a roller to obtain good adhesion.
Cut the ends of the strips that protrude flush.
Sew the decorative straps to the main pieces. Start the seam at the 2nd stitch and stop the seam at the penultimate stitch (to avoid excess thread thickness during the next seams) .
Finally, sew the handles of the bag in the place provided on the decorative straps. Double the seam (double stitches) to reinforce the fixation.
6. GLUE THE PIG VELVET LINING
Tips before gluing the liner:
If the leather is not firm enough: glue texon (thickness 0.8 mm) on the bottom of the bag (P8) before gluing the lining. SEE TEXON > |
To prevent the bottom of the bag from getting damaged or dirty: add 4 feet of bag to the bottom of the shopping bag (P8). SEE BAG FEET > |
Glue the lining:
Apply contact glue to the back of the suede pigskin and the leather parts to be lined (P8 and P7 (large model) / P6 and P7 (small model) and the 2 main parts) then position the pieces of leather on the suede split.
For the two main parts: do not double over approximately 1 cm at the top so that the lining is not visible on the edge when assembling with part P10 (large model) / P9 (small model) - (see photo n °2).
Press/flatten the bonding with a roller to obtain good adhesion.
- Drill the sewing holes of parts P8 and P7 (large model) / P6 and P7 (small model) left out in step 2 then cut them out.
- Re-drill the sewing holes of the two main pieces and cut off the excess lining with a rotary cutter.
For the main pieces, we have chosen to sew the decorative straps before doubling them. It is quite possible to proceed in the same way as for parts P8 and P7 (large model) / P6 and P7 (small model) so as not to have to re-drill the holes ( the seam of the straps will however be visible ) .
7. WORK THE SLICES OF LEATHER
Work the edges of all the pieces with Tokonole (vegetable tanned leather only) or an edge finish.
8. ASSEMBLE THE BOTTOM OF THE BAG
Glue the bottom of the bag over the main parts with leather glue.
Then, sew the bottom of the bag to the main pieces.
Tip: if the needles have trouble passing through the holes, use a round awl to enlarge them.
9. MAKE THE INSIDE POCKET
P6 & P7 (large model) / P5 & P6 (small model)
To be able to close the pocket: install two press studs using the appropriate installation tool or install magnetic tops.
- Sew part P7 on P6 (large model) / P6 on P5 (small model)
- Then re-work the edges of the pocket.
- Then sew the top of the pocket (P6 - large model) (P5 - small model) to the place provided on P10 (large model) / P9 (small model).
Wax the back (the split side) of the pocket with Tokonole to reduce the fluffy appearance of the leather.
Sew the 2 pieces P10 (large model) / P9 (small model) together.
Option: to be able to close the shopping bag, it is possible to put 2 magnetic tops or press studs on each piece at this stage.
10. SEW THE SIDES OF THE TOTE BAG
Sew the sides of the shopping bag: one of the main pieces must be positioned on the other.
11. SEW THE TRIANGLES
Sew the bottom on each side (triangles).
Attention, the top hole of each triangle must cross the 3 layers of leather (see photo).
12. SEW THE STRAP TO THE TOP OF THE BAG
Sew part P10 (large model) / P9 (small model) to the top of the shopping bag. Be careful to position the sides correctly so that the pocket is centered.
Work the slices from the top of the bag. Sand with an abrasive sponge to even out the edge then apply Tokonole or an edge finish.