THE NECESSARY EQUIPMENT
- 1 strip of VVN TANAO NAVY BLUE leather - Thickness 1.5 mm - minimum 1.25 m²
Here we used a dyed vegetable tanned leather skin from the TANAO range at over 100€. For smaller budgets, we advise you to select a firm or semi-soft semi-firm leather skin of 1.4 mm minimum thickness and 1.9 mm maximum thickness (e.g. coated crust, varnished crust, cowhide...).
- 1 VELVET velvet pig split leather skin - NATURAL. Recommended minimum surface area: 0.55 m²
- 1 spool of 500 m of braided and waxed polyester thread - diameter 0.80 mm
- 1 pot of tokonole - Leather finishing gum - 120g OR 1 pot of edge finishing (if you choose mineral tanned leather).
- 2 meters of strand for bag handle - Diameter 6 mm
- 2 MINI GUN BARREL brass snap buttons - diameter 10.5 mm OR magnetic tops of 12.5 mm diameter (does not require an installation tool).
- 1 pot of 250 ml of water-based CONTACT GLUE
- 2 round-ended needles
- 1 round cookie cutter, 1.5 mm in diameter
- 1 mallet
- 1 cutter and rotary cutter
OPTIONAL : texon and bag feet for the bottom of the bag and 4 magnetic tops if you want to be able to close the tote bag.
BEGINNER: HAND SEWING LEATHER MADE SIMPLIFIED
For beginners, we offer a simplified hand seam called "hole sewing". You will not need any special knowledge to successfully make the bag. Discover in the guide below the essential points to know before embarking on simplified hand sewing.
SEE THE GUIDE >
EXPERT: SEWING LEATHER WITH SELLIER STITCH
Those who are more experienced in working with leather will be able to sew the tote bag with a saddle stitch seam. The saddle stitch is the stitch most appreciated by leather lovers because it is the strongest stitch.
SEE THE GUIDE > 
VIDEO
1. PRINT THE PATTERN
- Print the tote bag pattern in full size (download in the tab at the top of the page).
- Assemble and cut out the pattern, leaving 5 mm margin around the lines.
- Then place and hold the pieces on the leather skin using masking tape.
2. DRILL THE SEWING HOLES
Make the different sewing holes by hitting a round cookie cutter (Ø 1 and maximum Ø 1.5 mm) with a mallet.
Sewing hole spacing (center to center) is 6.5 mm. You can use the Deco Cuir punching cutter with 5 removable punches to go faster.
Adjust the last points with a simple round cookie cutter.
VIEW ARTICLE >
Do not drill or cut parts P8 and P7 (large model) / P6 and P7 (small model) which will be doubled in step 6.
*For saddle stitch sewing, you must mark the sewing points with a stamper after cutting out and/or assembling the pattern pieces (step 3). Do not hesitate to consult our complete guide.
3. CUT THE LEATHER PIECES
Cut out the leather pieces with a cutter following the lines of the pattern. Reminder : do not drill or cut parts P8 and P7 (large model) / P6 and P7 (small model) which will be doubled in step 6. 
4. MAKE THE BAG HANDLES
Apply leather contact glue to the back of the 2 P3 pieces. 
Then, cut 2 pieces of approximately 54.5 cm of strand and glue them in the center on the back of each P3 piece.
Then, fold the handle on itself (match the holes). 
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Sew the bag handles:
Cut a thread 4 times larger than the length to be sewn. Thread a needle into each end of the thread and begin sewing the handles.
- Pass the thread through the first hole and even out the threads.
- Sew by passing each needle through each hole one by one.
- Finish the seam with 3 double stitches (bartack stitches) and cut the thread flush. To create symmetry, you can start your sewing with 3 double stitches.
- Hit the seams with a jointer's hammer or riveting hammer.
Work the edges of the handles with Tokonole (vegetable tanned leather only) or an edge finish.
TOKONOLE GUIDE >
5. WORK THE DECORATIVE STRIPS
Start by working the edges of the decorative strips with Tokonole or an edge finish. With a rasp file for glue, scrape the leather where the decorative strips will be glued (to improve the adhesion of the glue) . 
Apply contact glue to the back of the straps and to the flower of the 2 main parts of the bag. Then glue the 4 decorative strips. Press/flatten the bonding with a roller to achieve good adhesion. 
Cut the ends of the excess strips flush. 
Sew the decorative strips onto the main pieces. Start sewing at the 2nd point and stop sewing at the penultimate point (to avoid excess thread thickness during the next seams) . 
Finally, sew the bag handles in the place provided on the decorative straps. Double the seam (double stitches) to reinforce the fixation. 
6. ADHESIVE THE VELVET PORK LINING
Tips before gluing the lining:
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| If the leather is not firm enough: glue Texon (thickness 0.8 mm) to the bottom of the bag (P8) before gluing the lining. SEE THE TEXON > |
To prevent the bottom of the bag from getting damaged or dirty: add 4 feet of bag to the bottom of the tote bag (P8). VIEW BAG FEET > |
Glue the lining:
Apply contact glue to the back of the velvet pork crust skin and the leather pieces to be lined (P8 and P7 (large model) / P6 and P7 (small model) and the 2 main pieces) then position the pieces of leather on the velvet crust.
For the two main pieces: do not double about 1 cm at the top so that the lining is not visible on the edge when assembling with piece P10 (large model) / P9 (small model) - (see photo n °2). 
Press/flatten the bonding with a roller to achieve good adhesion. 
- Drill the sewing holes of parts P8 and P7 (large model) / P6 and P7 (small model) left aside in step 2 then cut them out.
- Re-drill the sewing holes on the two main pieces and cut off the excess lining with a rotary cutter.
For the main pieces, we chose to sew the decorative strips before lining them. It is entirely possible to proceed in the same way as for parts P8 and P7 (large model) / P6 and P7 (small model) so as not to have to re-drill the holes ( the seam of the straps will however be visible ) .
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7. WORK THE LEATHER SLICES
Work the edges of all pieces with Tokonole (vegetable tanned leather only) or edge finishing. 
8. ASSEMBLE THE BOTTOM OF THE BAG
Glue the bottom of the bag over the main pieces with leather glue. 
Then, sew the bottom of the bag to the main pieces.
Tip: if the needles have difficulty passing through the holes, use a round awl to enlarge them. 
9. MAKE THE INSIDE POCKET
P6 & P7 (large model) / P5 & P6 (small model)
To close the pocket: attach two snap buttons using the appropriate installation tool or attach magnetic tops.
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- Sew piece P7 on P6 (large model) / P6 on P5 (small model)
- Then re-work the edges of the pocket.
- Then sew the top of the pocket (P6 - large model) (P5 - small model) in the place provided on P10 (large model) / P9 (small model).
Wax the back (the crust side) of the pocket with Tokonole to reduce the fluffy appearance of the leather. 
Sew the 2 pieces P10 (large model) / P9 (small model) together.
Option: to be able to close the tote bag, it is possible to place 2 magnetic tops or snap buttons on each piece at this stage. 
10. SEW THE SIDES OF THE TOTE BAG
Sew the sides of the tote bag: one of the main pieces must be positioned on top of the other. 
11. SEW THE TRIANGLES
Sew the bottom on each side (triangles).
Be careful, the top hole of each triangle must pass through the 3 layers of leather (see photo). 
12. SEW THE STRAP ONTO THE TOP OF THE BAG
Sew piece P10 (large model) / P9 (small model) to the top of the tote bag. Be careful to position the sides correctly so that the pocket is centered. 
Work the top slices of the bag. Sand with an abrasive sponge to even out the edge then apply Tokonole or edge finish. 
YOUR TOTE BAG IS COMPLETE!
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